8 June 2024
Jana ล vecovรก projects Excalibur (9b+)
Jana Svecova, with nine 8B boulders and some 8a routes under her belt, has started to project Stefano Ghisolfiโs Excalibur (9b+). After four sessions she has done all but one move. โI never took rope climbing outdoors as seriously as bouldering but now Iโam kinda into it ๐ซขโ
How come you raise the bar all the way up to 9b+ and donโt start with an 8c or so?
Well, as I describe in the video the route is very similar to Terranova (8C+) in many aspects. I just got really psyched for that route after the discussion with Will [Bosi] who is now very close to send the route. So I went to check it out and the moves are super fun to try and actually not even that hard for me to do (some of them are hard for me but I can definitely work on it and still itโs just two or three moves anyway) so I got really psyched after the first trip and if I get back in better conditions I think I might have a chance to do some links. I wasnโt really taking the difficulty as a factor if I should try the route or not I just like the moves and it feels possible and since I am having so much fun projecting it I canโt wait to get back there.
How come you raise the bar all the way up to 9b+ and donโt start with an 8c or so?
Well, as I describe in the video the route is very similar to Terranova (8C+) in many aspects. I just got really psyched for that route after the discussion with Will [Bosi] who is now very close to send the route. So I went to check it out and the moves are super fun to try and actually not even that hard for me to do (some of them are hard for me but I can definitely work on it and still itโs just two or three moves anyway) so I got really psyched after the first trip and if I get back in better conditions I think I might have a chance to do some links. I wasnโt really taking the difficulty as a factor if I should try the route or not I just like the moves and it feels possible and since I am having so much fun projecting it I canโt wait to get back there.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Related
8 November 2023
Bosi upgrades ล vecovรก's Nova to 8C
In June, Jana ล vecovรก made the FA of Nova (8C) in Holstejn, giving it an 8B+ grade. Now, William Bosi has made the first repeat and suggested an upgrade to 8C. โฆ
William Bosi just recently said that he felt that Adam Ondra's Terranova (8C+) was as hard as Burden of Dreams 9A. Now, Jana Svecova has dropped a video where she does all moves on Terranova in just two sessions, by coming up with new beta.
22 June 2023
Jana ล vecovรก sends Nova (8B+)
Jana Svecova continues her big Terranova (8C+) project by doing the FA of a shorter variant, Nova (8C) in Holstejn.โ15th day. Start like Sedni si na kost (8B+) and finish like the second part of Terranova. 2 mover 8B into 8B? And now the whole Terranova, but first some hardcore training! :D."
Related news
8 November 2023
Bosi upgrades ล vecovรก's Nova to 8C
In June, Jana ล vecovรก made the FA of Nova (8C) in Holstejn, giving it an 8B+ grade. Now, William Bosi has made the first repeat and suggested an upgrade to 8C. โฆ
William Bosi just recently said that he felt that Adam Ondra's Terranova (8C+) was as hard as Burden of Dreams 9A. Now, Jana Svecova has dropped a video where she does all moves on Terranova in just two sessions, by coming up with new beta.
22 June 2023
Jana ล vecovรก sends Nova (8B+)
Jana Svecova continues her big Terranova (8C+) project by doing the FA of a shorter variant, Nova (8C) in Holstejn.โ15th day. Start like Sedni si na kost (8B+) and finish like the second part of Terranova. 2 mover 8B into 8B? And now the whole Terranova, but first some hardcore training! :D."
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ



