Jules Marchaland has sent Ephyra (8C+) in Chironico. The 24-year-old stopped competing in July last year and then in a couple of months he sent six 9a routes and beyond as well as five 8C boulders including one flash. (c) Arthur Delicque

”Unexpected send. 3 days. Just stuck the pinch a few times. Never linked it before. And somehow finished it and made the top-out for the first time. So, so, so, so, so good. Such an amazing moment with friends.

What is next?
Back to routes. Maybe Ratstaman Vibrations (9b) or Biographie (9a+) in Céüse. But no endurance training since Madrid world cup, so getting back in endurance shape chill outside and a Fionnay trip for Permanent midnight low (8C+) and others stuff, good combo.

Michael Piccolruaz, who was 15th in the Tokyo Olympics, has completed Companion of Change (9a+) in Zillertal. This was the first 9a+ for the 30-year-old, not counting the DWS route, Es Pontas (9a+), for the Boulder specialist. (c) Sara Grippo

”Finally! Two years after losing my mind over this route, I managed to keep it together and finish it off! Glad to see I can still improve tactically and maybe also physically ??”

Can you tell us more about the improvements?
I'm not so sure what made me feel better on the route than two years ago. Ever since I stopped comepting last September I haven't followed any training plan, I climb a bit less (in terms of days a week), I try to mostly climb outside, and somehow this proves to work really well. I feel probably im my best shape ever, eventhough I can't really explain why. The best explanation I have is that through climbing on rock more I have more sessions where I try SUPER hard, which improved my max power. Indoors I rarely manage to try so hard, cause I want it less. Outside, I want to reach the top at any cost, and so I try harder, I guess. It just shows me how important spending a lot of time outside is for me!

Jonathan Siegrist, who last year did his seventh 9b, has repeated Omen Nomen (9a) in Arco. ”Felt so so good to try hard again after the last couple weeks nursing a rib injury. I can really see why this route is so popular - it's truly unique and also varied in a cool way. Stoked to climb it! 5 tries.”

What about the rib injury?
A couple weeks ago I took an unexpected sideways fall and the impact strained my intercostal muscles pretty bad. For the first few days I couldn't even hang on a pull up bar! Steep climbing seemed impossible so I started looking for more vertical routes that didn't give me much pain. When I first tried Omen Nomen there was no way I could do the crazy crux toe hook - just too much pain in my ribs, but after 5 more days or so I could do the crux and unlocked the route.

What is next?
We leave Arco in a couple days unfortunately. Hopefully we can come back soon with less injuries! For now I have a bunch of bolting and route developement back at home in Las Vegas.

Makoto Yamauchi, who sent 8C already in 2014, live-streamed his session repeating Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams (9A) in Lappnor today.

The 31-year-old took off 48:23 and 20 seconds and 3.5 moves later he managed to get control of the huge swing from the big dyno. This was the second trip to Finland for the Japanese climber, who was very close to completing it on the first trip and who prepared by working on a replica.

Ainhize Belar Barrutia, who three weeks ago sent her fifth 9a, has completed La Reina Mora (9a) in Siurana. ”After doing Estado critico (9a), I was looking for another project in El Pati to combine it with Finestra. It was a route I’d wanted to try since the first time I came to this wall, but the first crack didn’t really motivate me, haha. When I finally tried it, I really liked it because it’s an endurance route that lets you fight a lot. I was able to do it pretty quickly in the end.”

Three days later, the 20-year-old sent Victimes del futur (9a). ” A route I tried for the first time a while ago, one I’ve gone back to now and then to give a few tries when the moment came, but that I’ve always left a bit to the side… These days I’ve been really motivated to close that circle, give it some solid attempts, and finally be able to say I’ve done a route on this wall that I have such a love-hate relationship with haha 🥴 All I can say is this doesn’t stoooop ❤️‍🔥❤️‍🔥 Only a few days left around here…” (c) Mar Diaz Miranda

Trym Skuggen Landmark, who last year did his first two 8B+’, has completed Juneru (8C) in Albarracín.

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
I think the boulder fits me absolutly perfect, everything is about a two finger pocket/mini crimp undercling. I think undercling crimps is definetly a big strong point for me, and I have pretty small fingers so a small pocket is also good.

I got past the crux shoulder move on the last go of the 3rd session but was way to tired to do anything on the next move. That made me decide to dedicate the last session to the boulder where I made it past the crux and felt super good on my first two goes. On the first one I was blinded by the sun and couldnt see the hold, and on the second I felt super close but just missed the crimp

After that I had some bad goes and skin started to feel bad, and was almost bleeding on my right index finger. On my absolute last go before we had to leave every hold felt super bad from, but I somehow stuck the crux move. The next move felt super shit but I just got lucky and hit it perfect😅

What is your climbing background?
I have been climbing most of my life, and competed since the youngest youth category, but I have also always climbed a lot outside and definitely love that part of climbing!

What is next?
I want to get some projects in the Oslo area and I also have a project in Bohuslän. After that I will go to Rocklands in the summer!

Lily Gurdison, who did her first 8b one year ago, has completed Killer Z (8c) in Hurricave. ”Insanity with Amity! Pulled it out after I thought the season was over. Goes on this route gave me insane unrelenting pump that one time left my forearms toasted for a week straight. No knees🫨”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Clipping the chains on "Killer Z" was a total surprise and an absolute delight! I had been trying the route for the past 2.5 months, the name of the game being endurance and power endurance. It starts as a pumpy 8b, into a 7c+ section, and then you have a 7a+ boulder crux at the top, which spat me off multiple times this season. When giving redpoint attempts on this route, I have gotten the most pumped I have ever been in my life probably 3 or 4 times!

Amity Warme invited me out yesterday for a nice weather window, before that I had previously accepted that the season was over. To my utter suprise, I was able to hold it together through the pumpy steep climbing and vicious boulder at the top! It was a great day and a great first 8c!

What is your climbing background?
I've been climbing for 12 years! Most of my climbing years have been spent as a competitor in US youth and elite competitions, and now my focus has been on the outdoors for the past 2 years! I am lucky to live in Las Vegas, NV where there is so much access to outdoor climbing all year round.