Jonathan Siegrist and Martina Demmel lead the global Top-100 ranking game

Jonathan Siegrist is #1 in the Top-100 ranking game having sent almost 100 routes 8a and harder, including 32 onsights up to 8b+, over the last 12 months. Martina Demmel who has onsighted 50 routes 7c+ to 8b, is the runner-up. Martina recently answered some questions we had for her regarding her most recent all-around productivity and success on the rock. (c) Mirco dell Osta

You've managed to compete at World Cups and still be one of the best all around outdoor sport climbers. How do you typically approach a day on the rock?
I guess it depends on if the area is new for me because then I prefer to see lots of different routes and to try several of the classics first instead of only trying one harder route the whole trip... while onsight climbing I get the purest experience of flow because I'm so focused on understanding the next move that my thoughts remain in the moment. It's also like opening a present because anything could be in the package and while onsight climbing you also have to be ready for everything all the time. I'm also often avoiding to go too far out of my comfort zone where I don't know if it's possible at all for me because I haven't really unlocked the right mindset for this part...

Will you put more focus on rock or comps for the rest of this year?
Actually I'm not climbing outside that much at all at the moment, for example only three times in May, and I'm surprisingly even more motivated to train on plastic right now... Probably things [motivation] are changing from time to time and I realised that I was still identifying myself as only a rock climber despite having the comps as my priority but I didn't really find the joy on rock anymore and it felt more forced... Now, I'm using all my motivation & energy to give it my all for comp preparation. I'm sure that my passion for rock climbing is not gone, but rather that it will come back even stronger someday in the future.