NEWS

Belastningsskador i klatring
Gudmund Grรธnhaug, som har klรคttrat pรฅ hรถg nivรฅ i 20+ รฅr och har en Masters i Science in Sports, har publicerat boken Belastningsskador i klatring. Den norska boken tar ett helhetsgrepp och omfattar allt frรฅn grundlรคggande trรคningslรคra inkl fรถrslag pรฅ periodisering samt detaljerad info av de flesta belastningsskador man kan rรฅka ut fรถr. Den tar ocksรฅ upp kroppsรถvningar man kan anvรคnda efter skadan och รคven fรถr att trรคna antagonisterna. Under hรถsten hรฅller han fรถredrag i Norge och hoppas รคven kunna besรถka Sverige och Danmark pรฅ temat - "Tren mindre, prester bedre!" Mรฅlet med foredraget er รฅ lรฆre bort hvordan man kan รธke effekten og samtidig minimere sjansen for skader! Boken inleds med ett fรถrord av Adam Ondra som fรถrklarar att han aldrig har varit skadad och orsaken till detta รคr att han inte hade prestation i fokus nรคr han var tonรฅring utan istรคllet bara klรคttrade pรฅ. Utmanar man sig รคndรฅ med allt fรถr hรฅrd prestationsinriktad trรคning sรฅ ger boken enkla och praktiska rรฅd hur man diagnosticerar och behandlar tecken pรฅ skador. Trots att den รคr skriven pรฅ norska รคr den lรคttlรคst och det blir aldrig riktigt komplicert. Boken รคr praktiskt tillรคmpar och har hela tiden budskapet att kรคnn efter och ta det fรถrsiktigt. De tydliga anatomiska bilderna fyller รคven som funktion att man blir lite skrรคmd och istรคllet fรถr att fรฅ en kronisk skada sรฅ undviker du den genom vila och allmรคnna รถvningar. Det enda som saknas รคr ett sakregister sรฅ man enklare kan sรถka sig fram till rรคtt sida. Norsk klatring intervjuade honom: - Hvis opplaget pรฅ 1500 blir utsolgt sรฅ fรฅr jeg kanskje en timelรธnn pรฅ 40 รธre. Blir ikke rik av รฅ lage fagbรธker i Norge! Men jeg har lรฆrt utrolig mye underveis og jeg har fรฅtt samarbeide med noen av de aller beste pรฅ sine felt. Hvis boka i tillegg kan bidra til รฅ hjelpe noen ut av skade, eller til รฅ hindre skade sรฅ er det lรธnn nok i massevis. Klatring er altfor gรธy til at man skal behรธve og skade seg av det. Kรถp den fรถr 329 nkr

8C by Toru Nakajima
22 September 2015

8C by Toru Nakajima

Toru Nakajima reports on Facebook that he has done Paint it Black 8C in RMNP which Daniel Woods set up in 2012. One week ago Toru wrote on Facebook that he tried it for the first time and that is was his first outdoor climbing in three months and that, "I'm weaker than I used to be." "Yeeeeeees!!! I completed Paint it Black V15 early this morning! I got up at 4:30am and did it at 8:30am. I cannot believe what I'm able to do while this short trip. Of cause I'm happy to sent it, but I also happy to be able to come back to such a hard climb again. I have stopped training from July and focused on studying. I started climbing again at the beginning of September, so it was too short preparation to be in best condition. Based on that, I didn't thought I can do such a hard problem. I can't believe!

Kyparissi Festival 2-4 October
Kyparissi is a small village in one of the last remaining remote corners of Greece, located 300 km south west of Athens. Surrounded by cliffs of exceptional quality and wild beauty, it waited a long time until a bolting project was able to be implemented under the supervision of r Kalymnos, Aris Theodoropoulos. Between 2-4 October, there will be a festival with Angy Eiter invited as a special guest. Approximately 100 sport routes of all levels have been equipped in Kyparissi to-date. They are distributed across six beautiful crags, with shade both in the morning and in the afternoon. More information about the new routes in Kyparissi can be found online at Climb Greece

Flatanger - Just the beginning of a new era
The history of climbing changed somewhat when Adam Ondra entered the gigantic cave in Flatanger in 2012. Only three years later, most of the hard core celebrities visited it and everyone was blown away. For the landowner Olav Strรธm and his wife Berit Hestnes everything changed upside-down. This August they had about 40 guests on and they are now personal friends with many of the best climbers in the world. The future looks bright and now there are some 250 routes in all grades within walking distance from their camping, where you have indoor accommodation and free WiFi. They have also started to offer more things like fishing gear, boat trips and they can drive you to the village for food shopping etc. But it is also about just chill out in Nature's bosom. Flatanger is located 180 km north from the Trondheim airport but with a bus and a taxi you arrive in the city within four hours for some 35 Euro! Beside that, everything is actually rather expensive in Norway but in the camping you can live low-budget. Dave Graham says it all, " I haven't felt this type of syke I'm experiencing since the first time I visited Cรฉรผse in 2001. Its crazy when you can notice the start of a new era in your own climbing; inspiration like this is only congruent with jaw dropping natural lines, and the best stone in the world. This is just the beginning; I feel giddy, infatuated, consumed, and unable to stop my mind from racing through beta and sequences of rigs I've already attempted or ones I dream of getting on next."

9a by Gabri Moroni again
21 September 2015

9a by Gabri Moroni again

Gabri Moroni has done Super Circo Abusivo 9a in Paline. "Beautiful long hard technical route from Berni Rivadossi! Tried a couple of times last year, three days this summer in heinous conditions and sent on the first day of good conditions! Very unexpected!" Gabri won the Youth World Championship in 2002 and in 2004, he was #3 in the European Bouldering Championship being 17 years old. During the last ten years, he has also been a world class climber and boulderer. The last year hje has done three 8B+ and one 9a+. The great picture from Paolo Sartori is from Margalef.

La Sportiva Amabassadors - 56 pages booklet
""We believe in our athletes. We support their vision with our products, tracing the path of evolution and innovation in the outdoor world. Each team member has a personal story of experience, passion and dedication as well as values which La Sportiva echoes. Each story is a reality of its own, every success comes from work and application. Our athletes explore the boudaries of the World looking for the next step in the evolution of their disciplines, with the inevitable consequence of being ambassadors of the growth of their communityย”."

9a again by Edu Marin
21 September 2015

9a again by Edu Marin

Edu Marin has done Cosi se Arete 9a in Rodellar and comments on Facebook. - One of the most beautiful routes in the area with almost 60 meters in total with an inconsiderable and demanding finish. A master piece by Sergio Casteran y Dani Andrada. After a long summer in the mountains I am more motivated than ever and with a nice feeling, already thinking about my next goal. (c) David Munilla

8C FA by Nalle Hukkataival
Nalle Hukkataival reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of The Stepping Stone 8C in Grampians and here is the video from his previous tries. "There are moments in life that are hard to write down in words. Yesterday was one of those moments. The last month of my life has completely revolved around climbing this one incredible project. Yesterday was just one more day trying the project and it wasn't going so well. All expectations were finally out the window and it was down to one last ditch effort. The sun was dipping down behind the horizon and painting the rock red. This would be my last try. The wind kicked up. I chalked my hands about a dozen times, like I do when I'm nervous, and pulled on the rock. I was climbing on total autopilot like I have many times through the sections. A series of screams of surprise and relief lead to the sight of my right hand grabbing onto the finishing hold! I climbed the V0 topout like it was V13. Right there, standing on top of that boulder watching the bright orange sunset could be the most memorable climbing experience of my life! Surely one of the very best lines I've ever opened; The Stepping Stone, somewhere around V15. Who even knows with the upper numbers anymore. Looking forward, I couldn't have asked for a better trainer for the Lappnor project! No time to waste, I'm flying to Finland in the morning to attack it full force again! Let's see if this was the extra kick I needed to finally get the Lappnor project done! Amazing times in Australia!! SWOOOPPP!!!

Low prices at EPIC TV Shop
EPIC TV is the biggest video climbing media and their webshop is growing with low prices, and that includes the biggest brands. Solution (in the picture) is Euro 109 including free shipping. In fact, once you become a member you get 5 euro for free and then 10% lower prices. This means that new members pay euro 93.50 for Solution and then you get a 5 euro coupon. You can also buy ropes for under 100 euro, a Mammut harness for 45 euro, a Grigri for 69 euro and even get a quick draw from Climbing Technology for Euro 6.95! And do not forget that the prices are 10% lower for members. It seems, pretty much all brands are at sale there so check it out and start saving some money.