Iker Arroitajauregi has after six days of projecting made the third ascent of Jan Hojer's Jour de Chasse 8C in Fontainebleau. The 36 year old has previously done one 8C, Txapela and numerous 8B+'s. Interview in spanish with many videos.

There exist probably a dozen different innovative locking carabiners, beside the original screw carabiner. Actually, most companies in the industry have presented technically nice advanced ideas trying to optimize the overall handling/safety issues. All of them are 20 - 200 % more expensive, except the brand new Strike Slider from Edelrid which is actually cheaper than the original screw carabiner. The Edelrid innovation presented at Friedrichshafen is also the smallest, lightest and quickest to clip in on the market. In the beginning, it feels pretty scary to use as it is so slim and that it so easy to open. You just put your thumb on the outside lock and drag it down two mm to unlock it. It is almost as easy to open as you open your quick draw gate when you put it in the bolt hanger! In theory, of course a screw carabiner is normally a bit safer. As a matter of a fact, the safety focused climber could actually use the Strike Slider on both ends of the quick draw as it works great also clipping in the rope.

Moritz Perwitzschky has done Ronin 8b+ (c) in Frankenjura. "First 8c :)! 5th go, maybe 8b+, but nevertheless nice 3D- roof-climbing with one hard bouldery section." In January, the 14 year old, onsighted four 8a's in Geyik Bayiri.

Frankenjura is the epicentrum in the world with 100 routes 8c and harder. However, when it comes to recorded ascents during the last year, four spanish crags, within two hours from Lleida, are in top of the list. 86 Rodellar 82 Siurana 79 Margalef 73 Oliana 53 Frankenjura

Barbara Zangerl reports on facebook has done the three classic 8c's; Fish Eye, T1 Full equip and Mind Control that might be 8c+. (c) Jacopo Larcher (Who onsighted two 8b+; China Crisis and Gorilas en la Niebla). "I think T1 Full Equip is easier....8b+ (for sure not harder). I really enjoy the time here in Oliana. It's my first visit. I will go back home to Austria on Tuesday and my next plan is trying Prinzip Hoffnung (8b+ trad) again. Its just next to my flat." Some years ago, Barbara was one of the best female boulderers in the world but after a back injury she has been focusing on sport and multi pitches also being one of the best in the world. Last year, she finished the alpine trilogy by doing the first female ascent of the MP Kaisers neue Kleider 8b+.

The most frequent comments and complaints we receive, and also the most well known boulder controversy ever, (The Story of 2 Worlds, see picture) relate to sit starts ethics. What seems a simple and logical definition, starting sitting on one pad, are sometimes twisted and pushed, creating different prerequisites and even grades. The sit start ethical problems relate mainly to boulders where the reach and different starting positions have an impact on the grade. Good style and ethics mean that you should start sitting using the same holds as the FA. Sometimes, a shorter boulderer needs to stack pads in order to reach the only starting position. Bad style and ethics relate to when taller guys stack up more pads compared to shorter guys, especially if it also comes with a personal down grade, making the honest sitting guys, soft graders.

Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson came to the Philippines with the idea of making a Sea Kayak/Deep Water Solo Expedition. They had dreams of living simply, paddling along the coast and between the islands, and climbing where they wanted. As the first half of their project comes to an end, they can confirm that this “dream” is possible but might not be the most practical way to do things here… About the rock: spectacular, and although a lot of it is unbelievably sharp there is also a lot of compact overhanging white and grey walls, often covered in pockets and stalactites. Read more on their website (c) Francisco Taranto Jr.

Here are the results for which 1+ month injuries are most common in comparison with an identical poll in 2009. 39 % Fingers (42 % in 2009) 19 % Shoulder (17) 16 % Elbow (14) 10 % Knees (9) 06 % Foot/Toes (7) 05 % Arm muscle (6) 04 % Other - ankle most mentioned (4)

The webmaster has improved the map and here you can add lodging (Camping, Guest Houses and Youth Hostels etc) which will be shown on our map with some 3 000 crags.

Nicolas Durand informs that the ECO refugio in Abella de La Conca, near Terradets and Oliana, are "after 3 and a half years of planning, financing, purchasing and renovating we are finally opening our doors to guests on March 1st 2014." You have 100 routes within 15 min walk and you can walk to 200 and the aim is to open 100 more in 2014. 50 % are below 7a and here is the Tick List and a Left-to-Right topo will be sorted soon. They have pick up service from Barcelona airport, 2.5 h, which cost a maximum of Euro 200 for 4 person. They can also drive you to other nearby crags at a low rate. "It's important to remember that we are a non for profit organisation which aims to develop sustainable outdoor activities and ecological preservation in Abella de La Conca so all money is reinvested in new routes, local ecological project.