NEWS

NUMBERS

Monday, 22 August

Looking for (debate) articles

We are looking for guys who would like to share their opinions, writing debate articles on some interesting subjects, travel reports or interviews etc. Just send your draft to jens@8a.nu and try to make it short.

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NUMBERS

Monday, 22 August

Boulder WC Overall 2011

1. Kilian Fischhuber 600 - Anna Stöhr 652 2. Dmitry Sharafutdinov 531 - Akiyo Noguchi 633 3. Guillaume Glairon Mondet 423 - Alex Puccio 502 4. Tsukuru Hori 348 - Melissa Le Neve 427 5. Alexey Rubtsov 338 - Mina Markovic 385 This was the eight straight year Kilian Fischhuber was Top-2 in the overall rankings. He can be considered as the best boulder competition climber ever. For Anna Stöhr, who also won the world champion in 2007 and 2011, it was the fourth straight year Top-2. It could be mentioned that only four female participated in all nine events including the Top-3 ranked. Among the male, ten participated in all comps. Sharafutdinov did miss two events due to Visa problem and if he would have been #2 in one of them, the Russian world champion would have won overall.

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NUMBERS

Monday, 22 August

9a by Matty Hong (19)

Rockandice reports that Matty Hung has opend Bad Girls Club, 9a in Rifle which was equipped by Joe Kinder. Two years ago, Matty did the neighboring 8c+, The Crew.

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NUMBERS

Monday, 22 August

8B by Niccolò Ceria (17)

Niccolo Ceria has done Deep throat, 8B in Magic Wood. During 2011, the 17 year old has done six boulders 8B and harder and he is #2 in the junior ranking game.

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NUMBERS

Monday, 22 August

9a by Chris Sharma

Daila Ojeda reports that her boyfriend Chris Sharma has done Duele la Realidad, 9a in Oliana which was set up by Dani Andrada as an extension to Markus Bock's original 8c+.

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NUMBERS

Sunday, 21 August

The Pou Bros on repetitions to Orbayu, 8b+ (8c+/9a)

Iker and Eneko comments on the 8b+ or 8c personal down grade suggestion by Favresse and Pustelnik of their 8c+/9a, Orbayu, the hardest graded MP in the world at the time."...we continue to believe that even if we did mistake our initial grading of Orbayu, the route is definitely closer to the grade we proposed than those proposed by Nicolas and Adam."

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EDITORIAL

Sunday, 21 August

Pressure of starting last in the boulder final

Debate/Jens: During the 33 Boulder WC's since 2007, only five times (15 %) the female semi winners did also win the final. The best explanation for this is that it is very hard to handle the pressure starting last out listening and understanding your opponents top out before it is your turn. This is also confirmed by the world champion results as Anna Stöhr who won both in 2007 and 2011, actually started first as she was #6 and last in from the semi both times. In 2009, when she won the semi, she was third in the final and instead the #4 in the semi won. The male results shows that Kilian Fischhuber and Adam Ondra with 78 % and 100 % wins, when they also won the semi, are extreme exceptions for the "upside-down" result. If we exclude these remarkable climbers, the male has also a very hard time handling the pressure as as only 13 % did win after starting last out in the final. Since the world champion in2007, when I witnessed how Daniel Dulac, who had flashed all semi problems, did not make a single boulder, I have tried to make IFSC change the format. Nowadays, you do not have to sit looking at the spectators cheering for the other top outs but the current format is unfair and the excitement is often lost in the comps before the last one has tried all boulders.

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NUMBERS

Sunday, 21 August

Two 8a OS by Celine Mehouas (20)

Celine Mehouas is a new member who has onsighted two 8a in Le Tarn, Les ailes du désire and Les nouvelles plantations. In Rodellar she has onsighted Adios Pepito, 8a and the 20 year old is #10 in the ranking game.

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8B's (+) by Michele Caminati

NUMBERS

Saturday, 20 August

8B's (+) by Michele Caminati

Michele Caminati has completed 18 boulders between 8A and 8B in Rocklands over the past month. Caminati gave a personal grade differing from the guidebook for 13 of the eitheen lines. In his comments he actually went further writing, "Honestly 7c+" etc, for some of the old 8A+'. The last days, Caminati has done Derailed and Madiba, giving it 8B which is in between what Pringle suggested and the general consensus. Michele is a former successful competition climber. He is #11 in the 8a ranking game, but he would be #4 without all of his personal grades.

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NUMBERS

Saturday, 20 August

Eastern Europe Dominate in last WC

1. Mina Markovic SLO - Dmitry Sharafutdinov RUS 2. Juliane Wurm GER - Rustam Gelmanov RUS 3. Anna Stöhr AUT - Alexey Rubtsov RUS The ninth and final Boulder World Cup was dominated by Eatern Europe. In the complete results we can also see that #5 of the female was from Russia, the #4 of the male from Slovenia and #5 from Ukraine. In the female qualification, the Top-20 to the semi topped out 91 % compared to only topping 6 % in the semi. The Top-6 finalist topped 38 %. Among the male, the corresponding % results were: 95 %, 13 % and 54 % in the final.

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