NEWS

EDITORIAL

24 September 2012

Sean McColl brought his Ipad and phone into isolation

Sean McColl the President of the Athlete representatives blogs about the red card that was given to the World Champion Jakob Schubert as he checked the clock on his mobile as he was in the isolation. In the live-streaming Sean said the red cart was "ridiculous" and that he should have been given a yellow card instead. Sean admits in his blog that he both brought an iPad as well as a phone in the isolation but they were turned off. "In my mind, if the phone is off and in your bag and no one sees it, then there is no point in having to turn it in... On top of that, 50% of people in isolation have a phone that is also OFF." In his blog, Sean has changed his mind after reading the rule saying that, "the judges were in 100% within their power in issuing the red card." I think Sean is a unfair towards Jakob as he also had turned off the communication possibilities as his phone were in flight mode. Jakob's violation should in practice be valued in the same way as Sean's. Further more, as the judges have never given any yellow card for bringing in turned off mobiles, in practice it is allowed to bring your mobile as long as you are not using it for communication. Also Jorg Verhoeven confirms this on Facebook, "Judges have been turning a blind eye to electronics in iso since years, so the decision seems hard this time..."


NUMBERS

24 September 2012

Video on UKC - Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Mecca 8b+

Great video and story about Mina's historic ascent as the first woman to climb 8b+ in Britain Mina climbs Meccafrom UK Climbing.


NUMBERS

24 September 2012

Two 8b's by Tito Traversa (11)

Tito Traversa has done two 8b's on the same day in Tetto di Sarre, Kabuki 2000 and the chipped Parsifal. The 11 year old did his first 8b+ when he was 10.


NUMBERS

23 September 2012

IFSC

The IFSC rules are very clear that you are not allowed to use any electronic communication equipment in the iso and if you do so you will immediate get a red card and get disqualified. In practice this rule does not apply any longer as it is a well known fact that electronic communication equipment often are used and the judges have never taken any action. To watch movies on laptops or to check the watch on your mobile are common practice which also were done in the World Championship in Paris. Jorg Verhoeven confirms this on Facebook, "Judges have been turning a blind eye to electronics in iso since years, so the decision seems hard this time..." In the case of Jakob Schubert being disqualified for checking the time on his mobile, he should have a very strong case making an appeal if some more guys come forward confirming what Jorg says. The solution could be that Jakob was compensated by giving him the ranking based on the average of all his final results during the WC's 2012. This is what has happened according Jakob. " I looked at the clock on my, in flight mode, mobile some 15 minutes before I was going to climb. A volunteer sees this and informes the judges who 20 seconds before I was going to climb give me the red card without even confirming with me if it was true." The World Cup climbers are one big family who cooperate during observation and sportmanship is very high. Jakob do know he made a mistake but the propotion of the penalty seems way to exaggerated as other identical violations have not even been given a yellow card. Let us hope it was just an unlucky mistake by the judges that can be recalled and that it was not a statement from IFSC as 8a published some critical comments towards them, from Jakob, just one day before Puurs?


New Ladies speed record on The Nose

NUMBERS

23 September 2012

New Ladies speed record on The Nose

Mayan Smith-Gobat and Chantel Astorga broke the Women's speed record on the Nose Yesterday. The new female speed record on The Nose is now 7 hours 26 minutes. “Speed climbing is not really something I have ever really wanted to focus on,” she said. “However, I find the men’s speed record of around 2.5 hours incredible and I do enjoy the feeling of moving fast. I started becoming inspired to set a new women's speed record on the Nose when I was in the Valley last fall and discovered that the long-standing [women’s] speed record –[12 hours 15 minutes at the time] —was barely even speed climbing.” And we should add "and first female El Cap - Half Dome linkup!" from Mayans FB. Photo David Falt: of Mayan Smith-Gobat


9a+ FA by Iker Pou

NUMBERS

22 September 2012

9a+ FA by Iker Pou

Iker Pou reports that he has done the FA of Celedon, 9a+ at Ilarduia which is a 42m line he bolted four years ago. For a long time he thought the route was too hard but in the end he was able to do it, "one of the the most beautiful routes [he] has ever bolted". Iker is one of the most impressive all-arounders in the world and earlier this summer he opened a 16 pitch 8b on Baffin Island together with his brother Eneko, Ben Lepesant, and Hansjörg Auer. (c) Victor Montilla


Daniel Woods best sport day ever

NUMBERS

22 September 2012

Daniel Woods best sport day ever

Daniel Woods has had a great productive day in Wild Iris, "My best day of sport climbing with friends and inspiring routes." His ticklist includes Genetic drifter 8c+ (c) and a flash of Rodeo Free Europeans, 8b+. He also did the the first repeat of Chris Sharma's Throwin the Houlihan low 8c, from 1998. "The original line starts out bridged on a rock. The low boulder problem was a project tried by many climbers. It adds in a 3 move 7C+ into the start of the Houlihan. To me this is the logical way to climb the Houlihan.


NUMBERS

22 September 2012

Kim and Ramonet win - Schubert disqualified

Jakob Schubert, the world champion from last week, was the last climber out in the Purs World Cup. But he was not allowed to climb as he had been given a red card for looking at his mobile. Jakob was of course very upset and said it was ridicuolus as the judge saw that he was only checking the clock and that everyone does it. Also Sean McColl the President of the Athlete representatives said it was "ridiculous" and that they could instead have given him a yellow card. It should be noted that Jakob did not get ranked #8 as the last finalist but disqualified from the whole competition. This means that the WC winner in 2011, now is in an almost impossible situation winning in 2012. The other big IFSC disqualification happend in the world championship in 2005 when the semi winner Ramon Julian Puigblanque had misunderstood the final isolation time. 1. Jain Kim 56+ : Ramon Julian Puigblanque 60+ 2. Johanna Ernst 54 + : Cedric Lachat 57+ 3. Magdalena Röck 51+ Romain Desgranges 57+ Complete results The final routes were graded 8c and 8b+.


Schubert: New athlete representative

EDITORIAL

21 September 2012

Schubert: New athlete representative

Jakob Schubert has been selected as the new Athlete representative. Do you have any new ideas? I'm very motivated to work together with Sean McColl and the other representatives to improve our sport, especially on the way to the Olympics. I don't like how such important rules which changed our sport were made this year. There is a rules comission, but in the end there are other people who decide, even though if they have no clue of climbing. Putting in the time rule and taking out minus scoring at the same time is just nonsense! There is a lot of work to do... In my opinion the superfinal is a good solution, they have the argument against it that it takes more time and its not possible with TV and so on, but that's not right if you ask me. There are so many other sports where its not sure at all how long the comp takes and its fine. Also the time rule is really bad for the spectators, while a superfinal is awesome to watch.


8a will minimize reporting chipped ascents

NUMBERS

21 September 2012

8a will minimize reporting chipped ascents

8a has since for several years been fighting hard against chipping. It is of course impossible to draw a defined line what is chipping and what is cleaning especially on lime stone. In fact, one of the famous equippers in Gorges du Loup has here on the 8a forum said that he consider all his FA's manufactured. In the 8a data base it is possible to mark a route or a boulder, "Poorly/Mainly Chipped". In order to make a stronger statement which hopefully will reduce any further manufactured impact on mother earth, we will minimize reporting chipped ascents in the news. We do not say that it is wrong to climb chipped routes and if somebody do something extraordinary we will report. However, there will be no chipped 9a, or 8b+ by female, ascents in the news. We will also try to minimize reporting contrived variation and link-ups etc but that is another even more complicated story. Go for pure quality lines!