LATEST NEWS

AUS 8a.nu will publish personal bests

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Sunday, 12 December

AUS 8a.nu will publish personal bests

Climbing news should be inspiring, encourage you to have fun and ultimately go climbing. In the spirit of this, 8a.nu AUS will publish personal bests and other inspiring stories irrespective of grade. We can't all climb grade 33, but if you think it's cool, chances are others will too. Let's hear it! Send your interesting news and project successes to AUS news editor Lee Cujes. Pic: Sheree Ferguson enjoying one of Kalymnos' easy slabs.

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Frosty (29) for Ryan Holmes

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Sunday, 12 December

Frosty (29) for Ryan Holmes

Frosty is a 29 at Rosies in Nowra, about 12m, overhanging on beautiful honeycombed rock with a bouldery start, distinct crux at about half height and then a sustained top. "It took me about a year, with between 20 and 30 tries. It was probably my longest project yet, and I was very frustrated on it for a long time. I did all the moves reasonably easily in my first couple of tries but I just couldn't link the crux move in even though I wasn't pumped! I'd fall off on that move on link, then pull straight back on off the rope and do the move pretty easily with no rest! A big mental game for me that I'm glad I've finally won." Ryan Holmes is #11 in the ranking game. Pic: Graham Fairbairn starting up Frosty, circa 1993!

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Sunday, 12 December

Boulder session female dream partner

Based on 1,100 unique votes, USA girls most wanted. Alex Puccio - 27 % Anna Stöhr - 23 % Lynn Hill - 13 % Lisa Rands - 7 %, Juliane Wurm, Alex Johnson - 6 %, Angie Payne, Akiyo Noguchi - 5 %, Others 8 % Rope session dream partner: Male - Rope session dream partner: Female

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Sunday, 12 December

9a by Said Belhaj

Said Belhaj has done Esclatamasters, 9a in Perles. Ramonet put up this excellent 40 metre route back in 2006. Unfortunately, Said's future holds surgery for his index finger: he can't fully bend it, after an operation due to a rupture of the tendons.

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Rest at the anchor = reduce the rest

EDITORIAL

Saturday, 11 December

Rest at the anchor = reduce the rest

Training/Jens: In order to increase blood circulation, you should hang in the anchor and shake out before being lowered down. Otherwise, there is a risk that the downward hanging and relaxed forearm muscle will be pumped up/flooded with blood. This will decrease the circulation as it will be more difficult for the squeezed capillaries/veins to return the blood. As you are climbing, the muscle contraction and the upward hanging arms make sure the forearms can not be flooded, unless you reach a no-hands rest. Instead, the problem is getting enough blood in your forearm muscle. The hanging onto the anchor technique is most important to use as you have been fighting hard with no good shake outs, limited supply of blood, like it often is indoors. This will reduce the resting time before you can go up there and fight and have fun again :-) How to improve endurance while climbing.

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Saturday, 11 December

Boulder session male dream partner?

Based on 1,400 unique votes. (Go to Female Survey) 1. Dave Graham 23 % 2. Chris Sharma 19 % 3. Fred Nicole 17 % 4. Nalle Hukkataival 11 % 5. Daniel Woods 5 % 6. Jacky Godoffe, Adam Ondra, Paul Robinson 4 % 9. Dai Koyamada, Kilian Fischhuber 2 % Others 9%

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Friday, 10 December

Another 30 for Fisher

Daniel Fisher has ticked off a quick ascent of the link up of Bloodline into Way of All Flesh at Bardon's lookout. Pleasures of All Flesh weighs in at 30 and Daniel sent on his third try. Daniel is #5 in the ranking game.

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Time Comparison Grading (TCG)

EDITORIAL

Friday, 10 December

Time Comparison Grading (TCG)

Debate/Jens: I have been asked to discuss the TCG which was created five years ago in order to try to explain and compare climbing gradings. The simplified diagram shows an example comparison of the time needed for a 7b+ max onsight climber to reach harder grades in perfect conditions. Click on the Picture The first 9a, 9a+ and 9b where all done after months of invested time by the FA. If you or anybody make a personal best within 15 minutes or so, it is most likely that it is a devalued grade. When you can not reach your max level it can often be explained by; Condition, Form, Style, Beta or that the grade is very stiff. TCG is a long way from a perfect tool to explain/compare grading as there are so many variables that can not be controlled. The time span are longer in bouldering and for different types of climbers. As it best, TCG can give a grade suggestion based on how much time was needed for an ascent.

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Rock Master Cape Town 2010

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Friday, 10 December

Rock Master Cape Town 2010

Fay Brouard and Matt Bush take the first ever Rock Master in Cape Town 2010. Wednesday evening, Cape Town's City Rock, held the very first Rock Master Competition outside of Arco, Italy. Mountain Extreme Events brought an exciting competition where SA's top talent competed for the title of "Rock Master". Read more on SA Mountain Sport Results: WOMEN 1. Fay Brouard 2. Rachelle de Charmoy 3. Jasmin Pillay MENS 1. Matt Bush 2. Marijus Smigelskis 3. Paul Bruyere

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Friday, 10 December

Hot Rock in Africa

Climbhotrock has been doing several big roadtrips all over the world and here is the latest report from Africa.

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