Alex Huber has done the FA of the vertical 76-meter-long Mythos (8c+) at Barmstein. In February, the German mountaineer was diagnosed with a brain tumour and underwent emergency surgery almost immediately. Fortunately, the tumour was benign and successfully removed, but recovery was a challenging journey. After a three-month pause, he gradually regained strength over the summer and achieved two remarkable first ascents. The first, Überleben ("survival"), is a short multipitch at Brendelberg graded 7c, 7b, 8b and the second, was Mythos an extraordinary feat just months after life-saving surgery. (c) Heinz Zak

The 55-year-old was one of the greatest climbers in the world during the 90’ies. In 1996 he made the FA of Open Air (9a+) which has only been repeated by Adam Ondra, who upgraded it to 9a+. In fact, several of Alex’ hardest FA’s have later been upgraded. During the last 25 years, his focus has been putting up big walls and multipitches. In 2022, he made the FA of the six pitches Ramayana (8b+) after having worked it ground-up alone with a soloist set up.

Can you tell us more about the 76 m route and the process behind it?
The "Mythos" is on the north face of Barmstein, a cliff which is just a 10-minute walk from my home. The route itself has some three parts.... the first 35 meters are overhanging but good featured somewhat in the 7c - range, then followed by 25 meters of very compact, almost featureless wall. In this continuous crux there is no one single good hold or foothold. With the last move of the crux being 60 meters above the ground the route is a mind game. You shouldm't get nervous about these delicate and tricky moves. The last 16 meters are still compact but have holds of normal size and the difficulty does not exceed the grade 8a+.

I started working it occasionally in August, but even though it is a north face, the temperatures were way to high for really attempting it. It was much more for „training reasons“. Then in October came the good temperatures before I finally climbed it on the 1st of November.

How long falls did you take?
Falls were up to 15 metres, maybe even a bit more because there is so much rope involved. But falls are basically soft and due tot he nature of t he route without any risk. During the ascent I intentionally didn’t clip one oft he bolts and accidently couldn´t clip the next either… because oft he weight oft he rope, clipping is really difficult. Brain surgery at age 55, how did you manage to get back in shape so fast?
Because of a bigger defect of the Dura Mater which was closed by an artificial tissue, it was necessary to avoid any activity whatsoever after my operation in February till June. Then I started with therapeutic climbing and in July I began climbing outdoors. As there was some certain epileptic risk I started climbing just toprope, mostly self belayed with minitraxion. Six month after the surgery I went back to alpine climbing in the Dolomites with Simon Gietl and this was the moment for me when I could see myself coming back to normal.

If you ask me how I could come back in shape so fast... it felt different for me. Six months of no real climbing is something which has never happened to me since I began climbing some 40 years ago. It is a long walk but I always felt better after climbing so it was the best therapy for me.

Taisei Homma, #2 in the Lead World Cup in 2022, reports on Instagram that he has completed La Rambla (9a+) in Siurana, one of the most famous routes in the world. Alexander Huber originally bolted the route and completed the 8c+ FA to an intermediate anchor in 1994. Later, Dani Andrada added two bolts leading toward a neighboring route, and in 2003, Ramón Puigblanque achieved the FA of the full line at 9a+. Now, with over 30 ascents, this 41-meter-long route is the most repeated 9a+ in the world. (c) Shinta Ozawa

Sungsu Lee, who has just signed up with six 8C’s and one 9a+ only in 2024, has completed Lucid Dreaming (8C) in Buttermilks. (c) Gum Jang Su

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Bishop is the first rock trip I went on with my Korean homies. I’m happy to be back here. It took 5 sessions to send it this, and now it’s time to start another project. I’m working on The Process (8C+) now! and since I’m leaving Bishop on 12/31, I don’t have much time left🙄

Janja Garnbret has reported on Instagram that she during a quick visit to Schleierwasserfall last month has done Hide and Sick (8B+), Power of goodbye (8B), Wrestling with an alligator (8B), Black Jack (8A+) as well as a flash of Orgasmatron (8A). Earlier this year, the double Olympic winner sent Bügeleisen (8C) and won all the five World Cups she participated in.

Gabriele Moroni, who last month sent an 8B+ and Megalodonte (8C) in Val di Mello, has made the FA of Prima Linea (9a+). Over the past 12 months, the 37-year-old has climbed another four routes graded between 9a and 9b. Gabri works as the head routesetter at Urbano in Milan, while also setting routes for both national and international competitions. Additionally, he serves as a coach for Team Italia. (c) Luca Consonni

Can you tell us more about the FA?
The day Alberto Gnerro invited me to join him at his crag, I couldn’t contain my excitement. I’d heard about this legendary wall for years but never felt the urge to ask if I could tag along. Alberto has been one of my childhood heroes—a climber I’ve always admired and the most prolific route developer in our region. I’ve been climbing on his creations since I was a teenager, and I’ll always be grateful for what he’s done, and continues to do, for our community. That first day at the crag was unforgettable. I was in awe of the wall’s sheer scale and steepness—it was both impressive and intimidating. Alberto pointed out a line I could barely make out, a route with seemingly no features. “That’s the first route I bolted here,” he said. “It should suit your style. You have to try it!”

Fast forward to this season—20 sessions later... I’d just returned from several days of route-setting in Paris. I should’ve felt exhausted, but that wasn’t the case. Straight off the plane, I drove to the project and ended up having one of my best sessions yet, despite the lack of sleep. Later that week, I found myself with a rare free day. It was dry, windy, and not too cold—the kind of day climbers dream of. Everything lined up perfectly. I felt light, in a way I hadn’t for a long time. The atmosphere was relaxed, just me, Stefano Bianchi, and Alberto. I felt supported and at ease.

When I stepped off the ground, I knew this time was different. The send didn’t come as a surprise—it felt natural. I was completely connected to every hold, fully in control of both my body and my mind. It was an incredible moment, made even more special by having Alberto there to witness it. A true full-circle experience.

How come you think you possibly have had your best 12 months outdoors ever?
I think I have reached a point where my private life, work and performance are aligned and I can express myself at my best. I don’t train much, but I constantly give my body some stimuli. And finally, this is the first year since 2015 that my elbows don’t hurt.

Mattea Pötzi made 4 out of 6 World Cup finals in 2024 including one podium and overall she was #7. This continued her previous progress for the last four years, when she has been 55 - 29 - 15 overall. On rock, she has had similar progress from having done her first 8a+ in 2020 until this year sending her first 8c+ route as well as her first 8A+ boulder.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo, who earlier this autumn sent two 9b+’ in Flatanger, has repeated Chris Sharma’s Stoking the Fire (9b) in Santa Linya. The 25-year-old is #1 in the Vertical-Life ranking game. ”Really cool moves with crazy drowknees in a perfect hard endurance section. It was always a dream line!” (c) Mar Diaz Miranda

Jonathan Siegrist has onsighted Panem et Circensis (8b) and Arco and I Riflessi del Rosso (1st pitch) (8b+) in Pizarra. In the VL ranking game, the 39-year-old is runner up after Jorge Diaz-Rullo. ”Absolutely brilliant! Such cool holds. Totally different than the routes more to the right.”

Can you tell us more about the onsights and Pizarra?
The wall is not so tall but the routes are actually super consistent. It’s really pumpy! You have to climb really controlled. It fits my style really well because I climb super slow. Probably too slow… The area is absolutely beautiful.

I really try to imagine as much of the route as I can from the ground. Ideally, I want to have a sequence for the first few bolts. But after that, it’s just guessing! For me, I typically do best onsights when I know an area pretty well. For this reason, I almost always save my hard flashes or onsights for the end of the trip. But honestly, I am not an expert at this style, comp climbers have it dialled it’s insane! I’m trying to improve.

Yesterday, Jonathan also onsighted Fine di un'Epoca (8b) in Arco.

Erwan Legrand, who did his first 9a this spring, has done the FA of Les loges de la fuite (8c+) in Gorges du Tarn. Erwan's father is Francois Legrand who won five Lead World Cups and three World Championships during the 90'ies.

Can you tell us more about FA?
After sending an 8b flash and an amazing 8c called Adieu Wolfgang on my fifth try of the day, I was pretty tired, and I had time to do something else. So, I was looking for a route no one was trying, and I saw this line, which inspired me. I asked for some information from a local, who told me it was a project bolted 30 years ago estimated to 8c+/9a. I did two goes that day and loved it and it fit me quite well, so I decided to try again the next few days. The day after, I checked the moves again and then I decided to try from the ground. On the first crux, I had been fighting for my life but then I was reaching a small rest, recovering a bit, going for another crux before I reached another rest before the final boulder. At that moment I realized that I was going to send the route and came to the final move but was just too pumped and failed there.

After a long rest, I made two other attempts but fell at the first crux. It was frustrating after being so close on my first try, but I gave it another try. I managed the first boulder with a lot of margins, then climbed quite easily up to the final crux. I felt pretty fresh and determined, so I gave everything I had and finally made that last move. I was really happy about that send especially because it was really unexpected. About the grade, it definitely didn't feel like a 9a as I was able to send it in only 2 days but the next one will tell. The route is amazing with very beautiful holds in a perfect wall, and I really loved it, I hope more people will try it.

Hannes Puman, #8 in the European Combined Championship in September, has during his first visit to Yosemite Valley, become the first person to free The Nose on El Capitan via the Schnaz Variation (8b). This pitch bypasses the famous Changing Corners pitch, often considered the climb's crux, by traversing left on small, reachy crimps before rejoining the main line.

Brooke Sandahl and Dave Schultz bolted the Schnaz Variation in 1992 during their attempts to free The Nose, but Lynn Hill abandoned it because it was too reachy. Later, Scott Burke added a bolt in 1998, and then in 2005, Ivo Ninov put up another one and did the FA of the Schnaz pitch. At the same time, Thomas Huber and Matt Wilder repeated the pitch, but Puman did not know this during his ascent.

Puman, climbing with Jamie Lowther from Scotland, spent 6 days on the wall for the ascent. Before this, he had completed a 5-day free ascent of Freerider with Jakob Östman, resting just 2 days in between.

Can you describe the route, your process and how hard it is?
The difficulty of this pitch is resolved around a short section of intense climbing on small and sharp holds. I used a method with big reaches in between the crimps. I went in from the top one time and tried changing corners and this variation. It took a few hours to solve the moves and do some links on Changing Corners. Matilda [Söderlund] tried this variation meanwhile and to finish of the session I went up one time and felt the holds. I learned that if you have the reach and level it’s possible to do it safely and its also easy to do many tries, skin is the limiting factor.

When I came from the ground I checked out the moves 1 time properly, fell on the last hard move and did it on the third try.

For me it’s easier to do because its more simple. It’s possible to work out the moves quick but it’s more reachy and powerful so maybe not for everyone. Changing Corners is very technical so if you perfect it it will be easier, but to perfect it is difficult and takes time.