
29 January 2025
100 sessions for Coudert in a 9A+?
Camille Coudert, who in 2022 repeated Soudain seul (9A) (without a book) made the FA of Imothep du sol (8B+) in Fontainebleau almost two years ago. Now he has spent some 100 sessions working the full line from the sit start, without having done the second move.
โI fall at the last hard move starting from the second move but I still donโt make it to the second hold (Iโm getting closer). I would say that I am both near and far.โ
The breakdown on the very steep arete with a great focus on the right heal is,
Sit start; 2 moves 8B+ (C)* and 4 moves 8B
Stand start: 2 moves 8B/+ and 8 moves 8A
โI think it is a hard 8C+ if you start from the second move and possibly 9A+ from the sit. You can not chalk until the 8A section but still not sure if is effective.โ
Camille (178 cm), who started climbing at age 18 and sent an 8A in Font in less than two years, is known for his hard grades.
* Nico Pelorson, with a 190 cm ape-index, has done the two first moves but he has abandoned the project as he had bigger problems with the other heal hooking moves.
โI fall at the last hard move starting from the second move but I still donโt make it to the second hold (Iโm getting closer). I would say that I am both near and far.โ
The breakdown on the very steep arete with a great focus on the right heal is,
Sit start; 2 moves 8B+ (C)* and 4 moves 8B
Stand start: 2 moves 8B/+ and 8 moves 8A
โI think it is a hard 8C+ if you start from the second move and possibly 9A+ from the sit. You can not chalk until the 8A section but still not sure if is effective.โ
Camille (178 cm), who started climbing at age 18 and sent an 8A in Font in less than two years, is known for his hard grades.
* Nico Pelorson, with a 190 cm ape-index, has done the two first moves but he has abandoned the project as he had bigger problems with the other heal hooking moves.
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