29 January 2025

100 sessions for Coudert in a 9A+?

Camille Coudert, who in 2022 repeated Soudain seul (9A) (without a book) made the FA of Imothep du sol (8B+) in Fontainebleau almost two years ago. Now he has spent some 100 sessions working the full line from the sit start, without having done the second move.

โ€œI fall at the last hard move starting from the second move but I still donโ€™t make it to the second hold (Iโ€™m getting closer). I would say that I am both near and far.โ€

The breakdown on the very steep arete with a great focus on the right heal is,
Sit start; 2 moves 8B+ (C)* and 4 moves 8B
Stand start: 2 moves 8B/+ and 8 moves 8A

โ€I think it is a hard 8C+ if you start from the second move and possibly 9A+ from the sit. You can not chalk until the 8A section but still not sure if is effective.โ€

Camille (178 cm), who started climbing at age 18 and sent an 8A in Font in less than two years, is known for his hard grades.

* Nico Pelorson, with a 190 cm ape-index, has done the two first moves but he has abandoned the project as he had bigger problems with the other heal hooking moves.
8 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
Coudert Camille does La Picharete (8C) and projects a 9A/+
Coudert Camille, who two years ago completed Soudain seul (9A), has done La Picharete (8C) in Fontainebleau. โ€I did this boulder last week as well as two 8Bโ€™s aโ€ฆ
Le pied ร  coulisse 8C (+) by Camille Coudert
Camille Coudert, who last year sent Soudain seul (9A), has done Le pied ร  coulisse 8C in Fontainebleau, Insta video. It was put up by Guillaume Glairon-Mondet aโ€ฆ
Coudert Camille sends Jack under the Box 8B+ (C)
Coudert Camille has made the first repeat of Killian Chabrier's Jack under the Box (8B+) in Fontainebleau, suggesting an upgrade to 8C. The 28-year-old sent Souโ€ฆ