3 February 2025
Two 8B flashes by Noah Wheeler
Noah Wheeler, who started the year by doing Return of the Sleepwalker (9A), has been on a trip to Hueco Tanks (TX) where he flashed two 8Aโs as well as
Slashface (8B) and Crown of Aragorn (8B).
Can you tell us more about the flashed and the beta preperation?
We came to Crown at the end of a long and hot 6-hour day, so re-warming up took an especially long time (1-hour plus). My fingers and forearms were completely numb at the top, and the grips are a bit split and crossly so it felt like I was grabbing every hold like a gecko. I had to split my fingers and squeeze the holds as hard as possible, rather than use an sort of technical crimping.
Our guide Marc was giving me beta, and I had watched a video for Slashface.
Preparing for Slashface was pretty standard! We went first thing in the morning so I just warmed up like regular and pulled on.
Can you tell us more about the flashed and the beta preperation?
We came to Crown at the end of a long and hot 6-hour day, so re-warming up took an especially long time (1-hour plus). My fingers and forearms were completely numb at the top, and the grips are a bit split and crossly so it felt like I was grabbing every hold like a gecko. I had to split my fingers and squeeze the holds as hard as possible, rather than use an sort of technical crimping.
Our guide Marc was giving me beta, and I had watched a video for Slashface.
Preparing for Slashface was pretty standard! We went first thing in the morning so I just warmed up like regular and pulled on.
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