
Two 8B flashes by Noah Wheeler
Can you tell us more about the flashed and the beta preperation?
We came to Crown at the end of a long and hot 6-hour day, so re-warming up took an especially long time (1-hour plus). My fingers and forearms were completely numb at the top, and the grips are a bit split and crossly so it felt like I was grabbing every hold like a gecko. I had to split my fingers and squeeze the holds as hard as possible, rather than use an sort of technical crimping.
Our guide Marc was giving me beta, and I had watched a video for Slashface.
Preparing for Slashface was pretty standard! We went first thing in the morning so I just warmed up like regular and pulled on.
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Alex Puccio, runner-up in the World Championship in 2014, has done 250+ boulders 8A and up, which is a female record. In the video she sends the classic Slashface (8B) in Hueco Tanks (TX).
Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) by Noah Wheeler
Noah Wheeler repeated Daniel Woods' Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) three weeks ago. "I first tried Sleepwalker stand 2 years ago but barely had any time on it because of the weather. I had 4 goes last year for the stand, 14 on the sit last year, and 2 this year. So about 20 sessions for the full thi…
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