Elsa Ponzo completes La Rubia (8c+)

Elsa Ponzo, who did her first 8c last November, has ticked La Rubia (8c+) in Villanueva del Rosario after two months of projecting. (c) Arthur Guinet

The 28-year-old, who was #14 in a bouldering World Cup back in 2015, has for several years mainly been doing multi-pitch routes and traditional climbing. Last year provided the opportunity to climb with Caroline Minvielle in South America, leading to personal growth and ongoing collaboration. After intensive MP climbing in spring and autumn, a change of pace led to visits to iconic climbing spots like Citdibi in Turkey and Villanueva del Rosario in Spain.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
La Rubia is above all a really classy line, the one that jumps out at you when you arrive and calls you. It was above all my motivation, I was intimidated at first but by putting some fears aside and well accompanied I took a look at it. It took us two days to get to the anchor, the time to find the methods, climb between the points. I say "we" because I went with a friend and we did a kind of relay to try to get to the top of the route. A really fun, playful moment, a source of excitement and discovery.

I loved the game and that's when I devoted myself to it, I went through the methods with my friends but as usual I love to put in the maximum attempts. It was after 6 sessions on the route that I started to try it by trying the bottom. It was only 12 sessions later that I reached the end. There were many times when I fell at the big crux at the bottom, at first due to a lack of resources, then of choice of methods and often due to the cold. In the meantime, I started to try other routes to take my mind off things. It was on a day when I really had no expectations that it worked. The usual warm-up route was taken so I decided to go to see an other route and then the La Rubia line became free so I went there without expectation.

I passed the lower crux (the first time from the bottom) with my friends cheering me on and I was distracted by the noises around me which took me out of my climbing and what I wanted to do to complete the route. I fell at the second crux due to lack of desire. Once the noise had cleared, I tried again, I went back over the lower crux and there it was amazing, I was tired but present in what I was doing. I passed the second boulder problem and I found myself really pumped for the last 15 metres of climbing, and there I had one of the best fights of my life, all supported by my friends at the bottom. An unforgettable moment that makes you want to get back to work! I have four friends who climbed with me on this route, not to mention all the others present in the projects alongside, a memorable atmosphere, support, kindness, laughter, joy and a beautiful mix of cultures! :)