NEWS

Christof Rauch does two 8A's or harder every week
For the last three years Christof Rauch has been doing almost two 8A or harder Boulders every week, including 10 8B+'s just last year. To make it even more impressive, he works full time as an electrician and building technician on a water plant where he always has Fridays off. What is your drive going for so many hard Boulders instead of just projecting 8C's? Actually I try a lot of hard boulders at the 8B+ and 8C range but most of the time I try some slightly "easier" climbs as well. It's just frustrating for me when I climb nothing for a while. I would say that I have some really good substance. When I am on the rock I mostly climb for about 8h with a few breaks around 20-30 min. Basically I train 1 or 2 times a week in the gym after work and on the weekend I always climb outdoors for 2 times. For example the whole last year i had less than 10 gym sessions on the weekend. If you have no problem with a lot of driving and you're motivated enough you always find a dry spot. I have no specific way to choose my projects. I just try what looks cool and could suite me at least a little bit, then I decide if I keep trying it or put it to rest till I get stronger. Sometimes I do some specific preparation for my projects. For example when I have a project with a lot of underclings I try to built some similar boulders in the gym. But most of the time I just do some basic training with a little bit of fingerboarding and campusing. What about your stretching exercises? I do a lot of stretching for my arms and my legs every day but beside that I do some massage on my forearms and fingers cause of some chronical tendinitis/inflammation. After that I do a few stretching exercises for my fingers and wrist as well. Interview by Stefan Koechel from last December.

9a (+) and 9a in a day by Piotr Schab
Piotr Schab, who did two 9a's in Santa Linya last week, has done another two today: Fuck the System and Selecciรณ anal, which is actually considered a 9a+ by other repeaters. (c) Pablo Benedito Please tell us about your new training regime. "In my training program there is almost everything it takes to be a professional in any sport. But above all there is a group of highly motivated people. This makes the biggest difference in the progression. When there are positive vibes during training, it can become a priority in ones everyday life. Each day needs to be scheduled and balanced, while being patient and consistent is the key. Seems like all the rest should be our club's mystery. My coach is Maciej Oczko and physio is Magda Terlecka. This physio work was a key to let me train hard all the time. In Krakรณw we have a good team spirit and an experienced coach so we can test a lot of methods.

Nicholas Milburn pri preleze svojho prvรฉho 8C, Paint it Black v Rocky Mountains National Park (RMNP). Len mesiac dozadu preliezol Nicholas svoje prvรฉ 8B+, Jumpman v Boulder Canyone a treba uznaลฅ, ลพe takรฝto pokrok je naozaj obdivuhodnรฝ!

More big ascents by Ondra in Oliana
Adam Ondra, who did a 9b FA in Oliana three days ago, has during the following two days onsighted one 8b+ and two 8c's as well as doing the FA of an 8c, and Happy Day 9a/+. "Super crimpy and weird moves, which is my style. Extension of Happy Hour. Bolted by Dani and Jon Cardwell?" In total, the 23-year-old has done 73 routes 8c to 9a, which can be compared with the runner-up with about 15 lines within this grade range. In the picture taken by Pierre Delas from Fanatic Climbing, you can also see Adam's girlfriend Iva Vejmolovรก, who just did her first 8b+, Gorillas en la niebla.

Nicholas Milburn sending his first 8C, Paint in Black in RMNP in December. Last month he did his first 8B+, Jumpman in Boulder Canyon.

Adam Ondra urobil 9b prvovรฝstup aj napriek besniacemu vetru
Adam Ondra spravil prvovรฝstup cesty Mamichula 9b v ลกpanielskej Oliane. "Spojenie ciest Papichulo a Pachamama, ktorรฉ prepรกja to najlepลกie z oboch ciest. Zรกroveลˆ sa tรฝm preskoฤรญ zvyลกok a pridรก sa ลฅaลพkรฝ traverz. Krutรฉ silovo-vytrvalostnรฉ lezenie, sรบลฅaลพnรฝ ลกtรฝl. Pre mลˆa to bolo jednoznaฤne ลฅaลพkรฉ 9b, veฤพmi v ลˆom natekรก." Na zaฤiatku lezeckรฉho dลˆa priลกla bรบrka a Adam si vtedy myslel, ลพe sa vรดbec nebude daลฅ liezลฅ, no poฤasie sa nakoniec umรบdrilo. Na zรกberoch od Fanatic Climbing je okrem Adamovho rรฝchleho a uลพ klasicky parรกdneho prelezu pekne vidno, akou silou vietor ลกklbal expresky a mรกdลพovnรญk. Ako vyzerajรบ tvoje sรบลฅaลพnรฉ plรกny na rok 2017? Mรกลก aj plรกny na olympiรกdu?" Pre tรบto sezรณny by som sa chcel zรบฤastniลฅ Majstrovstiev Eurรณpy na obtiaลพnosลฅ a Majstrovstiev sveta v Arcu, to je vลกetko. Mojou prioritou pre tรบto sezรณnu je Flatanger. Na olympijske hry si plรกny nerobรญm, dokiaฤพ nebude v plnej miere znรกmy formรกt. Zatiaฤพ je prรญliลก skoro. Mรดj nรกzor ohฤพadne terajลกieho formรกtu je vลกeobecne znรกmy a momentรกlne urฤite nechcem trรฉnovaลฅ lezenie na rรฝchlosลฅ, aj keฤ eลกte nie je istรฉ, ฤi na olympiรกde bude. ฤŒo si myslรญลก o formรกte, ktorรฝ navrhuje 8a.nu? (Najprv by prebehlo jedno kolo kaลพdej disciplรญny a urฤili by sa najlepลกรญ รดsmi pretekรกri. Nasledovalo by finรกle kaลพdej disciplรญny a podฤพa vรฝsledkov by sa urฤili celkovรญ vรญลฅazi. Alternatรญvou by bolo semifinรกle a finรกle formou duelu) Nepรกฤi sa mi finรกle formou duelu. Z pohฤพadu divรกkov by to podฤพa mลˆa atraktรญvne bolo, takisto pre pretekรกrov. Ale to len v tom prรญpade, keฤ sa jednรก o preteky "pre zรกbavu" - ako napr. Arco duel alebo DWS preteky Psicobloc v Salt Lake City. Keฤ sa ale bude jednaลฅ o seriรณznu sรบลฅaลพ, pre pretekรกrov to uลพ nebude o zรกbave a priateฤพskรก atmosfรฉra sa vytratรญ. Takisto si nemyslรญm, ลพe sa dรก na olympiรกdu zaradiลฅ disciplรญna, ktorรก nikdy nebola oficiรกlne sรบฤasลฅou svetovรฉho okruhu IFSC sรบลฅaลพรญ. Vytvoriลฅ takรบto novinku a zaradiลฅ ju hneฤ na olympiรกdu? Naฤo? Okrem toho nemรก niฤ spoloฤnรฉ s lezeckou tradรญciou - neukazuje niฤ z toho, ฤo vลกetci povaลพujeme na lezeckรฉ umenie - ukรกลพe jedine, ลพe dokรกลพeลก stredne ลฅaลพkรบ cestu vyliezลฅ rรฝchlo. Zvyลกok nรกvrhu je podฤพa mลˆa celkom dobrรฝ ฤo sa tรฝka fair play, no z ฤasovรฉho a organizaฤnรฉho hฤพadiska by to bolo neskutoฤne nรกroฤnรฉ.

La Rambla 9a+ by David Firnenburg
David Firnenburg has done La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana after just six days of projecting. "I opened the door to a new personal dimension in climbing. Curious about what I am capable of accomplishing in the future. Vamoooooooossssss amigos!" (c) Iuliia Leonova So how were you able to open that door? "Well, since I haven't trained specifically for the route it must have been my mental state and the strategy I've chosen how to cope with the challenge, I guess. I didn't put any big pressure on myself, took it easy. Dedicated trying the route over and over again and didn't switch to easier routes to build up the required endurance there. Got better with every try I made, adapted and optimized my beta after every fall or mistake. Finally the right conditions set in (cold and windy), I was convinced of sending it and suddenly stood on top."

9b FA by Adam Ondra in the storm
Adam Ondra has done the FA of Mamichula 9b in Oliana. "Linkup of Papichulo and Pachamama. Links the best of of both routes, skipping the rests and adding hard traverse. Sick power endurance climbing, comp style. Definitely hard 9b for me, too pumpy." The day started with a storm and Adam thought it was impossible to climb but it did calm down. Check the chalk bag from the picture from the Fanatic Climbing video, which is all about speed, flexibility and screaming as usual. What is your competition plan for 2017 and what about your Olympic plans? My plans for this season is to do ECH in Lead, and WC in Arco, and that's it. Otherwise my priority is Flatanger. I have no plans about Olympics before the format will finally be revealed. It is too early to think about it. My opinion about the format is widely known and I have no interest in training speed right now, even earlier before everything is confirmed. What do you think of the 8a suggestion of Olympic format? (First one round of all three disciplines and then calculate Top-8. Later a final round of all three disciplines and calculate who will get the medals. Or optional finish with a Duel semi and final.) What I don't like is the Duel finals. I say - yes, it is attractive to the audience. And for the athletes as well. But only as long as it is "fun" comp - like Arco duel or DWS in Salt Like City. If it gets as serious as fighting for the Olympic medals - it will not be be fun any more for competitors. There will not friendly atmosphere any more. Furthermore, you cannot include discipline which has never been within IFSC circuit. To make a new thing and include straight in the Olympic finals? Why? And it has nothing to do with climbing tradition - it shows absolutely about what we all consider climbing art - it only shows that you can go fast in medium hard route. With the rest of proposal, I think it is quite reasonable in terms of fairness, but it is incredibly difficult in terms of time and organization.

Two 8A+'s by Jule Wurm
10 February 2017

Two 8A+'s by Jule Wurm

Jule Wurm won the World Championship in 2014. She stopped competing after winning the Euro Championship in 2015 in order to focus on her medical studies. Outdoors she continues to push hard and this week she did two 8A+'s, 5 TEC-B36-L5 and Zarzaparrilla Albarracin. What is your climbing life like nowadays? How about a comeback and the Olympics? Life is good, thanks:). Quite a lot of rock climbing recently. Jan (Hojer, who has flashed Bindu 8A+ (B)) and I have been to Font for a few weeks in January, then Pedriza (due to rain in Albarracin, but it turned out to be a very good alternative) and now we're in Albarracin for one week! I don't see me competing in the Olympics. So, no comeback I think, but you never know;) I really enjoy having more time for rockclimbing since I stopped competing in the Worldcup circuit.