
27 February 2017
Mr Safety gets unlucky - Bolt alert!
Ofer Blutrich is the most active bolter in Israel and he also takes care of maintaining the bolts at the crag, rebolting and educating. Two days ago he took down all fixed gear on the most popular 7c in Oliana and replaced it with new Black Diamond quick draws. "Just for my peace of mind. I could not see all dangerous gear any more."
Yesterday, Ofer took a fall on Gorilas en la niebla 8b+ and once he pulled up he saw that the hanger was loose, actually hanging on the last thread. As it was impossible to tighten the nut by hand he tried to reach the next bolt and then the hanger cut loose and he took a very hard fall, hitting the slab below. "I was evacuated to the hospital, and luckily didn't break anything just a cut in the elbow and painful bruises."
Most probably, several climbers have during the last years tightened this loose hanger with their hands but this is just a short-term solution and sooner or later it will pop. Climbers should have a fixed 17 and 19 nut tool in their equipment and as a matter of a fact, Ofer always brings it to the crag.
We will continue discussing with Ofer and try to come up with some advice on what to do if you end up in the same situation as Ofer. "It was a hard situation for decision making. I took the decision to try and reach the next bolt."
Henning Wang comments on the situation with an explanation on the loose hanger. "I will agree that a nut tool is a good addition to the gear, and had someone used one the moment the nut started coming undone, that might have saved the bolt.
In this case however a nut tool would change nothing. How do I know this? I did the route last week and tried to fix the nut with a nut tool last spring. The problem with the bolt in question is that it has taken too many falls with the hanger almost off resulting in bending and warping of the metal. The only solution to this bolt is to replace it with a new one. Hope you recover quickly Ofer!"
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