Clément Lechaptois has done Dreamtime in Cresciano giving it a personal 8B+ grade. "Four sessions trying with a crimpy method, just one left crimp and big lock off to a good edge (did the stand like that). In the 5th session I tried the jump with that new position for the hands and did the move first try. Then I never missed it. I readjusted my foot sequence to reach the undercling, rested a while and climbed the boulder first try from that day." (It might have been Simon Lorenzi who first did this beta. video 9 min in. Dreamtime is one of the most famous boulders in the world. It was put up as the world's first 8C in 2000 but was later downgraded. Then a hold broke and it was upgraded again. This new beta seems to be not using that broken hold.

Oriane Bertone is like last year fighting high temperatures in Rocklands over 40 degrees. Amazingly she has anyhow done two impressive flashes; Light Saber suggesting it to be 8A and Horizon Gazer 7C+. Her father Stefano gives us further details. "The temperature is increasing. 40° and more in the afternoon the last 3 or 4 days. We only can climb between 6 and 8 AM and from 17h30 to 20h PM. We go to climb with bottles of iced water, especially to resist during the approach walks. We have to choose projects in the higher sectors (The Pass, Riverside...) and roofs to reduce the temperature. We keep the hardest projects for the mornings, which are cooler. In the evening, we rather work with medium boulders (7C+, 8A), which are less complicated and less affected by the conditions. We only have four days to stay in Rocklands and we still have a few projects to complete. I hope the conditions improve a bit, to achieve one or two more difficult ascents. Very complicated end of the trip."

We are excited to announce the much-awaited beta release of the new 8a.nu site! 100 people will be selected as beta testers based on geographical area and historic user activity. We may add additional testers at a second stage. Prerequisites for the test: Please only sign-up if you have an existing 8a account and are a regular user. The beta test is scheduled to finish in February. Sign-up as a beta tester. The new version marks a complete overhaul of the previous site. A significant amount of effort went into the clean-up of all the historic data of 8a.nu. Besides a new interface and design, we have; - introduced a smart search feature - created a map-based visualization of crags: explore, search, and filter - added easy filtering options to display rankings - improved the logging of ascents. "Thank you to everyone who signed up for the beta test. So far, 250 climbers have been given access to the beta site and we have received a lot of great feedback! If you have not signed up yet, feel free to do so as we will continuously add more people to the beta test.

Maurizio Oviglia, who has bolted some 3 000 routes but are now mainly rebolting in Sardinia where he lives, has posted some in interesting thoughts in regards bolting on Insta. Chatting with him he points out that he especially does not like rap bolting on big walls and furthermore only bolt high-quality sport crags that will become popular. "Preserve the hard lines on the big walls for the next generation, that should be open with good ethics. Preserve the untouched areas without bolts. It’s not necessary to bolt everywhere because in the future it’s better to have fewer crags but with good gear and good quality. I think that it is good to bolt only the crags that easy become popular. It's not necessary to bolt all! In Sardinia, many climbers come from other countries and bolt everywhere! Some of these crags are not frequented. No people! So, why bolt these crags, especially if it is in a delicate environment? About easy routes, I think that in touristic climbing areas (Kalymnos, Sardinia) it must to be bolt safe. For the moment there are no rules, but surely one day we will have them, even though I'm not a person who likes rules in climbing."

Chaehyun Seo, who won the Lead World Cup, was #6 in the Ice World Cup in Cheongsong. Winners were Maria Tolokinina and Maksim Tomilov both from Russia. From the complete results we can also see that Mei Kotake, #11 in the World Lead Ch. was #7. Amazingly, the 16-year-old had just done four days of Ice Climbing practice before the WC. "My focus is on national championship and asian championship (last Olympic qualifying possibility) and make 9a+!" She did her first 9a in 2018. "My winter training focus are stronger fingers, max strength and physical. I make 4 days training and climbing schedule per week. Speed climbing is just 1 day per week. We will go to Tokyo next week for bouldering training. On February 18th, I go to Spain for three weeks." Her father Jongkuk says, "She tried La Rambla last year! So I think she can do that route.

Based on Maurizio Oviglia's discussion in regards bolting and some further chatting with him, we have the same opinion. Here is a draft for some bolt ethics and rules that can be further discussed which to a large extent share the suggested ethics and rules in the Tyroler declaration, which have ten articles. Here are three of them related to bolting. "- We strive to leave no trace. - The first ascent of a route or a mountain is a creative act. It should be done in at least as good a style as the traditions of the region and show responsibility toward the local climbing community and the needs of future climbers. - Both the friends of the sport climbing approach as the adherents of the adventure philosophy have a right to climb in accordance with their wishes and abilities. It should be our goal to preserve the pluralism of climbing styles, leaving them their special arenas." Here are some more specific suggestions. There are of course exceptions but in general... 1. Bolts should only be placed if they create good quality routes with great interest from the community. 2. Bolted routes should be safe relative to the grade. The risk for injury should be very low if the best practice is used. 3. Very easy short routes for kids/beginners could only have bolted anchors. 4. Abandoned routes should not be rebolted if they do not have a significant historical value. 5. Trad crags should be preserved as bolt free. However, if they do not get any traffic as such, bolts and especially anchors could be placed. 6. Opening up new crags only if it adds quality or something different to the community.

Here is the list of the most repeated routes that have been considered as 9a but has later been subject to be down graded. The logic behind this is that the community often quickly learns which routes are soft for the grade. 39 Era Vella - Margalef 38 Estado Critico - Siurana 27 Underground - Arco 25 Esclatamasters - Perles 22 Seleccio Natural - Santa Linya 20 A Muerte - Siurana Era Vella has just been repeated once during the last 18 months. The reasons for this are probably that the community has less interest to repeat it as it is not any longer considered 9a at the same it might have gotten more difficult due to a broken hold. Action Directe has 26 ascents but was originally considered 8c+/9a but is probably very hard for being 9a. During the last 14 months, it has only been repeated once.

Vadim Timonov has done his fourth 8C during the last month, From Dirt Grows The Flowers in Chironico and it took him just two session. Equally impressive is the pictured ten min ascent of Boogalagga 8B. In the 8a ranking game, the Russian who got the bronze in the Euorp Championship last year, is #5.