16 January 2020

Light Saber 8A (+) flash by Oriane Bertone (14)

Oriane Bertone is like last year fighting high temperatures in Rocklands over 40 degrees. Amazingly she has anyhow done two impressive flashes; Light Saber suggesting it to be 8A and Horizon Gazer 7C+. Her father Stefano gives us further details. "The temperature is increasing. 40ยฐ and more in the afternoon the last 3 or 4 days. We only can climb between 6 and 8 AM and from 17h30 to 20h PM. We go to climb with bottles of iced water, especially to resist during the approach walks. We have to choose projects in the higher sectors (The Pass, Riverside...) and roofs to reduce the temperature. We keep the hardest projects for the mornings, which are cooler. In the evening, we rather work with medium boulders (7C+, 8A), which are less complicated and less affected by the conditions. We only have four days to stay in Rocklands and we still have a few projects to complete. I hope the conditions improve a bit, to achieve one or two more difficult ascents. Very complicated end of the trip."
4 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
8A (+) by Oriane Bertone (11)
Oriane Bertone has done Tea with Elmarie 8A (+) in Rocklands. "Fantastic & funny line. Probably soft for tall climbers. Oriane needed many sessions to do thโ€ฆ
Oriane Bertone (11) preliezla ฤalลกie 8A (+)
Oriane Bertone preliezla Tea with Elmarie 8A (+) v Rocklands. "Fantastickรก, zรกbavnรก lรญnia. Pravdepodobne ฤพahลกia pre vysokรฝch lezcov. Oriane trvalo viacero nรกvลกtโ€ฆ
Oriane Bertone has done another three hard boulders in Rocklands; Sassy squash 8A, The arch 8A+and The Master Key in Rocklands. "Fantastic hidden boulder ! One hard move. I found my beta at the third session and solve this problem. Very happy for this ascent! In total, the 13 year old has now done โ€ฆ