13 January 2020

Most repeated 9a's subject to be donwgraded

Here is the list of the most repeated routes that have been considered as 9a but has later been subject to be down graded. The logic behind this is that the community often quickly learns which routes are soft for the grade. 39 Era Vella - Margalef 38 Estado Critico - Siurana 27 Underground - Arco 25 Esclatamasters - Perles 22 Seleccio Natural - Santa Linya 20 A Muerte - Siurana Era Vella has just been repeated once during the last 18 months. The reasons for this are probably that the community has less interest to repeat it as it is not any longer considered 9a at the same it might have gotten more difficult due to a broken hold. Action Directe has 26 ascents but was originally considered 8c+/9a but is probably very hard for being 9a. During the last 14 months, it has only been repeated once.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ