17 January 2020
Dreamtime 8C (B+) by Clรฉment Lechaptois
Clรฉment Lechaptois has done Dreamtime in Cresciano giving it a personal 8B+ grade.
"Four sessions trying with a crimpy method, just one left crimp and big lock off to a good edge (did the stand like that). In the 5th session I tried the jump with that new position for the hands and did the move first try. Then I never missed it. I readjusted my foot sequence to reach the undercling, rested a while and climbed the boulder first try from that day." (It might have been Simon Lorenzi who first did this beta. video 9 min in.
Dreamtime is one of the most famous boulders in the world. It was put up as the world's first 8C in 2000 but was later downgraded. Then a hold broke and it was upgraded again. This new beta seems to be not using that broken hold.
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