15 January 2020

Oviglia: Ethics and rules needed for bolting

Maurizio Oviglia, who has bolted some 3 000 routes but are now mainly rebolting in Sardinia where he lives, has posted some in interesting thoughts in regards bolting on Insta. Chatting with him he points out that he especially does not like rap bolting on big walls and furthermore only bolt high-quality sport crags that will become popular. "Preserve the hard lines on the big walls for the next generation, that should be open with good ethics. Preserve the untouched areas without bolts. Itโ€™s not necessary to bolt everywhere because in the future itโ€™s better to have fewer crags but with good gear and good quality. I think that it is good to bolt only the crags that easy become popular. It's not necessary to bolt all! In Sardinia, many climbers come from other countries and bolt everywhere! Some of these crags are not frequented. No people! So, why bolt these crags, especially if it is in a delicate environment? About easy routes, I think that in touristic climbing areas (Kalymnos, Sardinia) it must to be bolt safe. For the moment there are no rules, but surely one day we will have them, even though I'm not a person who likes rules in climbing."
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