Gio Placci, who was eleventh in the Madrid World Cup three weeks ago, has flashed Last soul sacrifice (8c) and sent Trip tik tonik (9a) in Gorges du Loup. (c) Crimp Films

Can you tell us more about the trip and the routes you tried?
I spent a week in Gorges du Loup to reset a bit after coming back and training for the comps. My main goal was to try PuntX, but after a couple of days it was just too painful on the skin and maybe also because I’m not good enough on pockets…. So I decided to drop it and focus on some less intense routes instead.

One of my side goals was to climb some other routes fast. I managed to flash “Last Soul Sacrifice” 8c with some beta from a French climber who explained it… in French. Let’s just say it was a spicy flash — I speak French, but not perfectly, so I didn’t catch everything. Kind of a half-flash, haha. I think my shape in comps really helpd in this route. The holds were quite obvious so it was mostly about fitness.

After that I tried Hot Chili-X onsight, but unfortunately I fell on the last move…. I sent it second go. Then I gave a flash go on Trip Tik Tonic 9a — made a decent attempt, but it’s a very beta-dependent route on tufas, and the sequence I used on the flash go was completely different from the one I used to eventually send it.

Right before sending it, I actually broke a crucial hold. I was TRISTE I thought the route might not be climbable anymore. Luckily I found a new beta and sent it on the next go. I’m really sorry to the community for breaking an important hold… I hope the route still climbs well!

After that, I tried Kinematix 9a/+ I gave it two days but couldn’t make it happen. On the last try I opted for the easier finish an 8c+ variant called “Total eclatch”

Overall, it was a refreshing trip that cleared my mind and gave me new energy to train for the upcoming comps — which are my main focus until September with the World Championships in Seoul. After that… back to rock!

Ethan Salvo, with four 8C’s under his belt, has during the same week repeated Chris Sharma’s Dreamcatcher (9a) and Andy Lamb’s Event Horizon (8C+), both in Squamish. The 22-year-old is working full time in a climbing gear store.

Can you tell us more about the number of sessions needed and how it was to work two projects at the same time?
I probably spent over 100 sessions on Event horizon over the past 3 years, that’s a bit of a guess tho, I tried to make my sessions count instead of counting the sessions.

Dreamcatcher was a lot less effort, I’d kind of play on it from time to time over the years. Last summer was my first season really trying to do it, and I spent maybe a dozen days on it, but in the end I wasn’t in shape physically or mentally for it.

This spring I climbed on Dreamcatcher another handful of days before getting it done. Not really sure how it was possible to work both, I guess it was though? A year ago I wouldn’t have considered that I’d be trying both at the exact same time, let alone finish them both at the same time. It was kind of one of those situations where you just end up in it like “huh alright I guess this is happening and I’ll just go along with it and see what happens”.

I really tried to let go of all logic this year when trying to understand if I was ready for both. No questioning if I was in “sport shape” or “bouldering shape”, I just knew I wanted to climb on whatever I was psyched on, and it happened to be both at the same time and I’d just split my time between them. I guess the main thing they did have in common was power endurance, Event horizon is 16 moves and Dreamcatcher is around 29 moves (minus the slab). So I’m sure my power level on event horizon helped with dreamcatcher, and my fitness from dreamcatcher helped with event horizon.

I didn’t need much fitness for dreamcatcher either since I found last year it was easier for me to skip the rests and just climb through them. I’d often leave the rests after 2-3min feeling more pumped and tired then if I didn’t rest. On the send go, I think I made it to the headwall in about 2.5min, quite the opposite from how most people climb on it, I really tried to speed climb.

What is next?
I’m spending the summer time working on a new trad pitch on the chief that’s got some very hard boulder cruxes on it. It’s been cool to try and apply my bouldering base to something totally different and explore a different world. I’ll probably spend the rest of the summer and fall season hanging up there on the wall, trying hard and enjoying the views of town, or clipping bolts at sport crags around town. I love bouldering but I am excited to explore sport and trad climbing more over the coming years.

Sam Weir, with 14 boulders 8C or 8C+ to his name, has sent Will Bosi’s Brain rot (8C+) in Magic Wood. The 33-year-old sent it in just three sessions and logged it as an 8C. ”Stout little boulder. Great addition to Magic wood by Will 🔥.” (c) Sebastian Maflin

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Sure! It can be broken down into three moves one of which is probably in the 8B realm. I first tried the boulder with Simon Lorenzi a week ago and felt close but could not keep the tension on a terrible left foot and a non existent toe hook. I came back this week with colder temperatures and things felt the same. It was close but no real progress on the comprehension of the move. On a whim I got a friend to power spot me to test a body position I was thinking about and to my surprise my brain understood the move! Took a good rest, changed my left shoe to a soft no edge and next go managed to take it to the top. Grade wise: I’m not too sure honestly. I’m excited to see what others think but it’s the hardest single move I have done I think🤔

What about your 8C personal grade?
Honestly I don’t know for the grade. It’s my style… small box and static climbing. The 2nd move is hard. But I flashed the 1st and last maybe 7B and 7C+ respectively? Does an 8B move mean 8C+? One movers are hard to grade. Maybe it’s 8C+ I don’t know 🤷‍♂️.

Lukas Sager, who did third 9a this spring, has done The famous gem (9a) in La Saume. A mental reset turned struggle into success, revealing the mind as climbing’s true crux.

Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent?
Four weeks ago, I was barely climbing 8a. Not because my body couldn't keep up physically, but because my mind was somewhere else. Distracting thoughts. To give you an idea: you climb, you clip, you breathe... and at the same time, you try to solve equations in your head. So we went to Verdon for a week and a half. Climbing easy routes, breathing, coming back to the present moment. Refocusing before trying harder.

In our sport, we often talk about the mental aspect. We say it's crucial. More important than the physical, even. But how many people really work on it? And above all, how many know how to do it properly? Today, if someone asks me, ‘What's your weakest muscle?’ I answer: the brain.

The process of The Famous Gem reminded me of this with surgical brutality. From the first climb, I knew I had what it takes to do it. I wanted to prove it to myself. But this route... It's everything I don't know how to do: short, physical, on a 45° panel, two cruxes with heels, a style I've always avoided. It took me six sessions, six falls with my hand in the final hold, two steaks, and a good dose of frustration... to finally clip the chain.

As for the grade: I'm not sure. It's my fourth 9a. If you put on a knee pad, it's probably easier. But in the end, who cares? route taught me. And above all, everything I still have to build, up there, in my head. Thanks to my friends for believing in me, for pushing me, for encouraging me. And above all, thanks to “Mélissa Le Nevé”. For the good questions, the ones that scratch, that shake you up, that make you think. The ones that help you move forward — not just in climbing.

At the Youth World Championships in Finland, Team Japan delivered a dominant performance, claiming three of the four available gold medals. In the Boys' U-17 category, Japan swept the podium, with Ryusei Hamada standing out as a clear leader across all three rounds. The other gold medalists included Yamada Kodai, Murakoshi Kaho, and China's Li Meini. Full results here.

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen has had a great tip to Val Daone and Gottardo sending five 8B’s and Adularia (8C) (Insta video). The 38-year-old is at an all-time high score, having sent a dozen boulders 8B and beyond, including one flash the last five months.

Can you tell us more about the trip and the 8C ascent?
We were on a 3-week summer trip between Val Daone and Gottardo. Both are beautiful places. Daone is a bit better for the holiday vibes, a bit warmer, and the Italian vibes are always chill. Gottardo is a bit better for hardcore climbing in the middle of summer. Combining those places was super fun.

Last year Adularia was on the top of my list, but gave me a proper ass whipping. Could do nothing with it. So, for this year, I did not even plan to try it. But then came some classic Alpine weather, lots of rain pockets combined with wind and colder temperatures. For some reason, it all felt so good from the first touches. The race was on!

Getting really close on day two, but out of nowhere it started raining and we had to bail 🤬 Only two days left. The last day looked grim on the forecast, but I also needed a rest day to recover both skin and body. I decided to gamble a bit, ignore the sore muscles and give it my all. All moves were dailed. Knew exactly what I had to do. Did a few moves one last time as a warmup and went for it. It did not feel as good as the day before. But giving up was not an option. Had to dig deep for that last far move to the finishing jug...all or nothing. Luckily, the gamble paid off 🥳

Dylan Chuat, who has done five 9a and harder the last five months, has sent Change P1 (9a+) in Flatanger, giving it a personal 9a grade. Now he is working on Move (9b).

”I find the crux super interesting and really fun to climb (nothing to do with what I expected). Originally, without a knee pad, Adam's [Ondra] method was a real 8B+ block and looked super traumatic for the shoulders. Now, with the new method, I would say it's more of a 7C block. So yes, the way is clearly easier today. For me, it's more of a mid-range 9a than a 9a+. But whatever, it was really a great time to climb this route!”

Can you tell us more about the new beta and what about Move?
The new methods aren't mine — Change was more of a side project for me. I didn’t really put in many tries, so I didn’t work much on beta. These “new” methods have actually been around for several years already; it’s just that, in my opinion, some of the repeaters after Adam weren’t completely honest when they said it didn’t change the grade, haha.

As for Move, I haven’t been able to get in many sessions because the conditions have been awful, but I did manage a really big link yesterday, so it’s looking promising. That said, I don’t have much time left.

Laura Rogora, who the last week sent four 9a’s and onsighted Ultimate Sacrifice (8c+) in Gorges du Loup, finished her trip by onsighting 7 pm JP chaud (8c) and redpointing Asai XXL (8c+), Tango to nik (8c+) and Total eclatch (8c+). (c) Alberto della Guida

Can you tell us more about your 8c+ onsight and your feelings during the send?
Actually, the idea came to me after the first few days at Gorges du Loup. I had spotted this route that adds a 10-move 8b to an 8c. The original plan was to try the 8c onsight, but then I thought it was worth trying the direct start, and if I fell lower down, I could still attempt the 8c onsight.

However, I knew that since endurance is my strength, if I managed to get through the intense first part, I'd have a real shot at it. On the first 8b part, I was close to falling twice, but I was quite relaxed because I knew I had nothing to lose. I imagined that section would be the hardest for me, as the route is not my style—short and chipped.

When I got through that section, I started to feel a bit anxious because I knew I had a real chance. But I climbed well up to the final crux, where I missed some holds on the right and messed up the beta. Luckily, I realized it in time and managed to go back and change the beta.

How was the route reading and how much did you follow the plan?
I studied the first 8b part from the ground and I almost followed my plan, after that I couldn't see so much.

We’re pleased to announce our collaboration with the British Mountaineering Council (BMC): From now on, all official national climbing competitions in Great Britain will be managed through the Vertical-Life Result Service. Registrations for the Youth Climbing Series opened on Monday at bmc.results.info, with over 1000 registrations in just a few hours. You'll be able to follow along the live scores starting September 13th, when the series kicks off.

You can find all information and results for BMC competitions here: BMC Result Service

Lorenzo Bogliacino, with four 9a+’ to his name, has done La Gioconda (9a) in Rodellar. (c) Eduardo Ruano

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
One of the best and physically demanding route I have ever ever done! 40 metre total roof. Hat off to 'Primo' for bolting this masterpiece and the other great routes in a natural way, preserving the rock and its shape!

I did the first pitch in June; in these holidays, after giving up my old project in Piscineta (Cosi se Arete (9a), too crimpy for me in summer conditions), I checked and send the second part starting with an 8a, but doing the whole route was more challenging! I had to take off a shoe in an upsidedown kneebar because of the pain! The 8a.nu comments by Primo and Gonzalo are just perfect: "Purostyle" and "With a thousand knees that leave your body destroyed."