Laura Rogora comments her 8c+ OS and strikes again

Laura Rogora, who the last week sent four 9a’s and onsighted Ultimate Sacrifice (8c+) in Gorges du Loup, finished her trip by onsighting 7 pm JP chaud (8c) and redpointing Asai XXL (8c+), Tango to nik (8c+) and Total eclatch (8c+). (c) Alberto della Guida

Can you tell us more about your 8c+ onsight and your feelings during the send?
Actually, the idea came to me after the first few days at Gorges du Loup. I had spotted this route that adds a 10-move 8b to an 8c. The original plan was to try the 8c onsight, but then I thought it was worth trying the direct start, and if I fell lower down, I could still attempt the 8c onsight.

However, I knew that since endurance is my strength, if I managed to get through the intense first part, I'd have a real shot at it. On the first 8b part, I was close to falling twice, but I was quite relaxed because I knew I had nothing to lose. I imagined that section would be the hardest for me, as the route is not my style—short and chipped.

When I got through that section, I started to feel a bit anxious because I knew I had a real chance. But I climbed well up to the final crux, where I missed some holds on the right and messed up the beta. Luckily, I realized it in time and managed to go back and change the beta.

How was the route reading and how much did you follow the plan?
I studied the first 8b part from the ground and I almost followed my plan, after that I couldn't see so much.