Sam Weir repeats Brain Rot (8C)

Sam Weir, with 14 boulders 8C or 8C+ to his name, has sent Will Bosi’s Brain rot (8C+) in Magic Wood. The 33-year-old sent it in just three sessions and logged it as an 8C. ”Stout little boulder. Great addition to Magic wood by Will 🔥.” (c) Sebastian Maflin

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Sure! It can be broken down into three moves one of which is probably in the 8B realm. I first tried the boulder with Simon Lorenzi a week ago and felt close but could not keep the tension on a terrible left foot and a non existent toe hook. I came back this week with colder temperatures and things felt the same. It was close but no real progress on the comprehension of the move. On a whim I got a friend to power spot me to test a body position I was thinking about and to my surprise my brain understood the move! Took a good rest, changed my left shoe to a soft no edge and next go managed to take it to the top. Grade wise: I’m not too sure honestly. I’m excited to see what others think but it’s the hardest single move I have done I think🤔

What about your 8C personal grade?
Honestly I don’t know for the grade. It’s my style… small box and static climbing. The 2nd move is hard. But I flashed the 1st and last maybe 7B and 7C+ respectively? Does an 8B move mean 8C+? One movers are hard to grade. Maybe it’s 8C+ I don’t know 🤷‍♂️.