Lukas Sager does The famous gem (9a)

Lukas Sager, who did third 9a this spring, has done The famous gem (9a) in La Saume. A mental reset turned struggle into success, revealing the mind as climbing’s true crux.

Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent?
Four weeks ago, I was barely climbing 8a. Not because my body couldn't keep up physically, but because my mind was somewhere else. Distracting thoughts. To give you an idea: you climb, you clip, you breathe... and at the same time, you try to solve equations in your head. So we went to Verdon for a week and a half. Climbing easy routes, breathing, coming back to the present moment. Refocusing before trying harder.

In our sport, we often talk about the mental aspect. We say it's crucial. More important than the physical, even. But how many people really work on it? And above all, how many know how to do it properly? Today, if someone asks me, ‘What's your weakest muscle?’ I answer: the brain.

The process of The Famous Gem reminded me of this with surgical brutality. From the first climb, I knew I had what it takes to do it. I wanted to prove it to myself. But this route... It's everything I don't know how to do: short, physical, on a 45° panel, two cruxes with heels, a style I've always avoided. It took me six sessions, six falls with my hand in the final hold, two steaks, and a good dose of frustration... to finally clip the chain.

As for the grade: I'm not sure. It's my fourth 9a. If you put on a knee pad, it's probably easier. But in the end, who cares? route taught me. And above all, everything I still have to build, up there, in my head. Thanks to my friends for believing in me, for pushing me, for encouraging me. And above all, thanks to “Mélissa Le Nevé”. For the good questions, the ones that scratch, that shake you up, that make you think. The ones that help you move forward — not just in climbing.