Christof Rauch, who until 2020 had done some 750 boulders 8A and harder including eleven 8C's, has switched to routes in 2021. Earlier he has done two 9a's and now he did his seventh 8c+ by the FA of The Redirection 8c+ in Salzburger Land.

"Suprised myself with a send of this great linkup. Couldn’t finish it last year, seems like my endurance improved a lot. All the hard part of „Direction Big Babalas“ into the final crux of „Das Geschenk“ connected with a hard traverse on perfect crimps. Thanks to Norbert for the vision and the support."

How come this change focusing on routes in 2021?
Basically I switched because we were not allowed to travel and I have not so many cool boulders left around home. The route climbing in Tyrol is even better than the boulders and haven’t done many of these cool routes, so it was time for a change.

Janja Garnbret won again topping out in ease like she also did in the semifinal. In total, the Slovenian has now won four out of the five Lead and Boulder World Cups she has done in 2021. In the fifth, she was #2. Laura Rogora fought like one minute on the second last hold before committing for a dyno to the top hold, clipping the anchor with just a few seconds left. However, the Italian was placed second due to countback from the semi. Third was boulder specialist Natalia Grossman who missed the last dyno.

Sean Bailey, who five weeks ago won his first Boulder World Cup, got his first Lead WC victory by winning in Villars. During 2019, he was on average #30 based on 14 Lead and Boulder World Cup. Anyhow, as regards the Olympics, he failed in Toulouse by using one too many attempts to the zone! Runner-up was Alex Megos followed by Colin Duffy who both are going to the Olympics. Overall, the USA with one gold and two bronzes had their best Lead WC for many many years.

Overall, a very good competition with great route setting. During the finals, Stefano Ghisolfi and Oriane Bertone helped out with the commentary and they did an excellent job. Noteworthy is also 16-year-old Alex Totkova making her first final and ending #6 after a good fight. It should also be mentioned that Slovenia had four girls in the Top-8 final and six among the Top-14 and Japan had five male Top-14.

1. Sean Bailey USA 38 - Janja Garnbret SLO Top
2. Alex Megos GER 35+ Laura Rogora ITA TOP
3. Colin Duffy (17) USA 31+ Natalia Grossman USA 42+
4. Sebastian Halenke GER 26.5 - Momoko Abe JPN 40+
5. Alberto Gines Lopez ESP 26.5 - Vita Lukan SLO 40+
Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

Very fast times in the Speed final in Villar with several PBs. It seems the level has increased already three years before Paris 2024. Tokyo olympian Iuliia Kaplina was #2 but made the best time with 7.01 which can be compared with her world record at 6.96. Among the male, Leonardo Veddriq set a new world record in Salt Lake City with 5.21 and although not having any perfect runs he made 5.32 and won. The fastest time during training is 5.05 by his teammate Katibin Kiomal who also made some small errors but anyhow did 5.35 or faster three times.

Janja Garnbret was #13 with 8.01 although doing some minor mistakes. Rishat Khaibullin, who is also going to Tokyo, set a PB with 5.53 and some hours earlier he had made a Lead PB, being #31. Actually, on the first route, he was #18.

1. Leonardo Veddriq INA - Ekaterina Baraschuck RUS
2. Timofeev Dmitrii RUS - Iuliia Kaplina RUS
3. Katibin Kiromal INA - Patrycja Chudziak POL
Complete results (c) Lena Drapella/IFSC

Andy Lamb has done his third 8C, Delirium in Mt Evans which is a harder exit to Wheel of Wolvo, a former 8C, he did three weeks ago.

"The second day dedicated to Delirium I got further than I expected, a few moves from the top my foot popped, and I didn’t feel that tired. I did a few laps on Dismantling the Enemy (second half of Delirium) and it felt pretty dialed by the end of the session. The next session I did Delirium the first time I got through the first crux moves. This one has always been a Colorado testpiece in my mind, psyched to get it done!"

What is next?
I’ve got a few more projects in Colorado I’m psyched on this summer, then hopefully some trips in the US and internationally after that.

Janja Garnbret flashed both routes in the qualification in Villars and runner up was Momoko Abe with one top. Among the male, Stefano Ghisolfi won and topped one route. Interestingly, five topped the first route and five topped the second. The semi, which is live-streamed, starts tomorrow at 10.00. (c) Vladek Zumr

It should be mentioned that several of the Olympic favourites did not participate: Adam Ondra, Tomoa Narasaki, Jakob Schubert, Akiyo Noguchi, Miho Nonaka and Brooke Raboutou.

The Speed qualification in Villars showed remarkable results. In order to make it to the Top-16 final, the male had to make 5.77 and the female 8.17. This can be compared with 6.09 and 8.62 during the World Championship in 2019. Ludovico Fossali won in 2019 and his best time was 5.90 which had put him #24 in Villar.

Olympians Alberto Gines Lopez and Janja Garnbret set PBs with 6.29 respectively 7.92. Janja's time was only beaten by seven girls in the 2019 Championship but and in Villar she was #11, meaning she made it to the final. Complete results

Ted Kingsnorth, who started climbing in 1994 and turns 44 today, has done Jerry Moffatt's Progress 8c+ at Kilnsey. He did his first 8c at age 36 and his first 8c+ one year later.

"Progress is a classic power endurance route with very little rest and with 35 sustained moves of continuous difficulty (the first 7 bolts) leading to good holds and a kneebar before a final pumpy roof to keep success in the balance until the final moves! The crux sequence is around Font 7c in difficulty by the 2nd bolt. It was a long journey to climb Progress over 5 years mainly due to the quite short season that we have in the UK at Kilnsey. Seepage is always a risk and can turn your project into a waterfall overnight or temperatures can be too high for small crimpers in mid-summer. Staying optimistic is essential and you have to be ready for when the good conditions arrive."

How is progress possible 40+?
I think consistency is the key in all training over the long term. I don't follow any training plan, just head outside when conditions allow and train on plastic if too cold or wet, I boulder on my woodie I built in my flat or do one arm assisted hangs over winter. I think its not that important exactly what you do for training, the main thing is to keep up the intensity and stay psyched, then you will see the gains! I make sure I rest more during summer than over winter to allow proper recovery. I hike for 2 - 3 hours on some rest days which seems to help recovery and increase fitness. Also, enjoying the days at the crag increases motivation and sharing in other people's successes is important and helps everybody crank out an extra grade at least!.

Having Progress go on for 5 years was hard on motivation for sure as I got close in 2019 but couldn't regain my highpoint that year and then it got warm and wet. Covid didn't help last year and it was harder to regain the fitness for long routes without proper route training indoors. This year, bouldering on my home woodie I built in January was the key and I felt much stronger on all the moves straight away. It took some weeks to get the route fitness back in May but it came back fine after some hard sessions. Also Eder Lomba found a new kneebar by the 6th bolt which allows a new shakeout, although it was definitely not hands off for me personally. Taking 2 pads up the route was a bit bulky but worth it for sure!