29 July 2021

Arco Iris 8c+ MP by Seb Berthe, taking a 25m whipper

Sebastien Berthe, one of the leading multi-pitch and big wall climbers in the world, has done the first repeat of Edu Marin’s 200 meter Arco Iris 8c+ in Montserrat. The Belgien confirms the 8c+ but thinks the other hard pitches were one grade easier. Still, it is one of the hardest MPs in the world. (c) Julia Cassou

Arco Iris is my hardest achievement in multipitch climbing for sure. This ancient aid route is really sustained and incredible: it follows an overhanging corner for 5 pitches (6c, 8b+, 8c+, 8b, 8a+). Edu rebolted the line with huge runouts so the freeclimb does not bother the aid, which is really important there in Montserrat. I took the longest whipper of my life, about 25m, trying hard on the 8c+... This makes it really hard for the mental, but I think he did a great job there! Despite some loosy rock, the holds are crazy and the climbing is great and so pumpy!

Sunday was my fourth day working the route, and I was'nt sure I had a chance this day. Anyway, I went "a muerte" with my belgian friend Baptiste Verdin as belayer and partner. I sent the first pitch pretty easily compared to the previous times. On my first go on the 8c+, I fell where I broke the holds the last time. I worked on the beta a bit more and took 2 hours of rest. On my second try, I climbed really well but felt more and more tired while progressing on the route. I reached the point where I fell before and shout loudly while doing the move. I really was at the limit. During the last 10m, I fought hard at every move, probably one of the biggest fight of my life! On the two following pitches, I gave my best. Despite the pump I sent them directly. After about 9 hours on the route we were on the top of the wall :-) I was so psyched and happy about it!”
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