Janja Garnbret the big favourite to win

Janja Garnbret was 2 - 2 - 3 in her three first Lead World Cups at age 16 in 2015. Since then she has won most of the comps she has entered in Lead and Bouldering. In Speed her PB is 7.92 which is best among all the non-Speed specialists. (c) Daniel Gajda/IFSC

Most probably the 22-year-old Slovenian will score 2 * 1 * 1 = 2. It will be sensational if her multiplied score is 10 or more. Her biggest risk would be doing a false start or slip in the first final race in Speed meaning her best result will be #5.

In bouldering anything can happen but even so, only an injury could put her outside the Top-3. In Lead, there are always a risk standing on a bolt or forgetting a clip etc and that would be her only risk not being Top-3.

In other words, she could score 5 * 3 * 3 = 45 points but then we are talking a mental break down due to some very bad luck in the qualification. What strongly talks against this is that it seems she has handled defeats great before. She just loves climbing and the challenging it creates and are happy even if she does not top out.

In reality, the only way Janja will only be runner-up is probably some bad luck in combination with Chaehyon Seo does her best Bouldering and Speed of her life. In Lead, she won over Janja four times out of six in 2019 when the Korean was 15-years-old.