Janja Garnbret the big favourite to win

Friday, 30 July

Janja Garnbret was 2 - 2 - 3 in her three first Lead World Cups at age 16 in 2015. Since then she has won most of the comps she has entered in Lead and Bouldering. In Speed her PB is 7.92 which is best among all the non-Speed specialists. (c) Daniel Gajda/IFSC

Most probably the 22-year-old Slovenian will score 2 * 1 * 1 = 2. It will be sensational if her multiplied score is 10 or more. Her biggest risk would be doing a false start or slip in the first final race in Speed meaning her best result will be #5.

In bouldering anything can happen but even so, only an injury could put her outside the Top-3. In Lead, there are always a risk standing on a bolt or forgetting a clip etc and that would be her only risk not being Top-3.

In other words, she could score 5 * 3 * 3 = 45 points but then we are talking a mental break down due to some very bad luck in the qualification. What strongly talks against this is that it seems she has handled defeats great before. She just loves climbing and the challenging it creates and are happy even if she does not top out.

In reality, the only way Janja will only be runner-up is probably some bad luck in combination with Chaehyon Seo does her best Bouldering and Speed of her life. In Lead, she won over Janja four times out of six in 2019 when the Korean was 15-years-old.

0  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date D Reply A



Tuesday, 19 January

Add crags to the database

We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.


Monday, 12 October

Systematic Devaluing ethics

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…


Wednesday, 18 May

No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs

During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …