Janja Garnbret is the big favourite to win the gold in Tokyo. Based on some 2000 8a user predictions, 85 % believe Janja to win. The only threats, based on the 8a predictions, comes from Akiyo Noguchi, Miho Nonaka and Brooke Raboutou.

Chaehyon Seo, who won the Lead WC in 2019 with 480 points compared to Janja's 352, has got 0% and 1% of the gold and silver predictions, respectively.

Back in 2019, the Korean was just 15 years old and during her only international Bouldering event, she was #13 in the World Championship after having been a tied #7 after the qualification. Her big weakness back then was Speed with a PB of 10.54.

Sure, she would have been better off if she could have done some World Cups in 2021 but remember that she was 2 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 in her first five World Cups at age 15. Logically, two more years of training would mean she should be able to continue her winning strike in Lead also in Tokyo. Her only two comps in 2021 were Korea nationals where she won Lead and Bouldering. When it comes to her weak discipline Speed she has not focused on this.

In any case, it would be a big surprise if she did not make it to the Top-8 final and she should be mentioned in the first category of contenders to Janja together with Noguchi, Nonaka and Raboutou. Olympic training interview is coming up.

She onsighted her first 8a (+) at age eleven, redpointed her first 8b+ one year later and did her first 9a (8c+) being 14 years old. Last year she was #6 in the Ice World Cup after just four days of training with the axes!

Anak Verhoeven, who one year ago ruptured a pulley, and later this spring announced that she will retire from the competition scene, has done La prophétie des grenouilles 9a in Fournel. Anak was one of the best female Lead competition climbers 2013 - 2018 and three times she won a WC event. When it comes to rock, she has done eleven 8c+/9a and harder which is second-most in the world after Laura Rogora.


How does it feel not doing the Chamonix and Briancon competition week?
It feels a little weird not to be at the comps after all these years of competing, but at the same time I’m very happy about my decision to focus on rock! I feel at home at the crag and enjoyed this trip to France a lot.

How many sessions did it take and how was the process?
The conditions for working the route were pretty tough, with rainy and windy days. But I was able to figure out great beta, especially for the crux in a little roof. It was nice to discuss the route with a German climber who happened to have chosen the same project and we learned a lot from each other’s methods. I wasn’t in the best shape of my life yet after a year with lots of rehabbing, but I felt that this route was within my reach. What brought uncertainty was the limited time I had in France. So it was a relief when I sent the route with one day left before having to go back home. I had worked the moves for about 4,5 sessions and then climbed it on my first redpoint attempt, so on my first attempt to link all the moves.

Jonathan Hörst, who did his first 8b (+) at age ten, has done Genetic Drifter 8c+ in Wild Iris. (c) Eric Hörst "Let's GOOOOO!!! After wiring all the moves last year I finally came back with some endurance to give it some goes. Unfortunate tweak on the first mono move 10 days prior but somehow managed to send on my first redpoint go after injury (and ever) on this link. The best line I've done on this wall."

What do you mean by a tweak and what impact did it have?
I had a tweak in my forearm from pulling on a mono on this route when I wasn’t fully warmed up. So since it happened like two weeks ago I spent like 10 days before my send climbing easier climbs and ones without pockets. Then sent the 8c+ my first day back on this route after the tweak!

Tanguy MERARD 🦐, who did his first 9a last year, has done La Moustache qui fâche 9a+. "Really nice route in the cool sector of Entraygues! Beautiful moves and first 9a+ for me. I tried it for the first time last year, I was close but a little hold broke. I gained a little bit of power and I sent it on my fourth session this year. It was a good process."

Next for the 17-year-old is Biographie 9a+, which he has been working on earlier this year but he had to take a three weeks break due to a back injury.

Martin Stráník, who got the silver in the Boulder World Championship in 2007, in his first-ever IFSC Boulder competition, has been #3 in the last two Lead World Cups. Interestingly, as a junior he was 13 times Top-2 in Lead in Euro Youth Cups but then after the silver, he changed to Boulder and overall in the WC his best result was #7 in 2016. Later his results dropped and in 2019, he made a shot for the Olympics but made only good results in Lead, three times being Top-10 in the WC.

How come you have focused only on Lead this year and how can you explain the great results?
I focused on lead, especially on climbing hard routes. I found modern bouldering is harder and harder to train for me, so I slowly switched to lead and found it very enjoyable. I trained 3xtimes a week on the lead wall and 2-3times on a wood board. A couple of times a month I go to Brno where we have a great facility, but it is 2,5hours to drive there for me. There are routes for Adam and routes are really hard, like Chamonix finals. The training plan is o lot influenced by my children. You know twins up to one year, you don't sleep well. Now they are moving fast so maybe I am fitter than ever, but I love to be a father. Corona came at the "right time" for me so I could spend more time with boys because of my home office. I am still in full time job as a metrologist. I am getting older, but I feel, my endurance is still in progress. I am working on it because the best are still far away, but I am coming closer, especially in hard bouldery routes.

It should be mentioned that the 31-year-old is #3 in the Bouldering ranking game including two 8C FA in 2021. In total, he has done 12 8C's and one 9a route.

Bayes Vilder has done his first 8b+, Rodeo Free Europe and we reached out to his father Matt, who back in the days made some 8a headlines including a 9a.

What is your sons climbing background?
Bayes has been climbing pretty much his whole life. In May he turned 10. He loves outdoor climbing but also competes in the youth circuit and is on the ABC climbing team in Boulder, CO. Over the past several years, he has really stepped up his outdoor game. He's had some great bouldering successes through the past few years climbing many V9s and some V10s and V11s. His success on routes has been mostly limited to the past year. His height has always been an issue on routes and prior to this last year, he wasn't climbing much on rope because it takes a lot of effort to go up a route only to find out that there's an impossible reachy move 3/4 of the way up.

At first last summer he was not very comfortable on 5.12s but eventually he succeeded on some 13a's. In the Fall we took a 2 week trip to the Red River Gorge and he climbed his first 13b (Golden Boy) and then shortly after climbed Swingline 13d in a day (4 tries I think). We bouldered a bunch this winter and he's done a few routes this Spring and Summer but didn't try much in the hard 13 or higher range. When we were out in Wild Iris over the 4th of July, Bayes succeeded on doing a short, bouldery 13d called White Buffalo and then set his sights on Rodeo Free Europe 14a.

On his first day (which was 3rd day on) he got all of the moves and a couple shorter links. He was pretty confident and so after a rest day on our last day of the trip, he got back on it fresh. He took a few goes to dial in some of the beta a bit more and then put in a handful of redpoint burns where he fell repeatedly stabbing a pocket after a double undercling move. He was ready to quit for the day, but decided to give it another go. All the pieces fell into place and he sent. Needless to say he was super psyched. I don't think he really had his sights specifically set on climbing 5.14 but this was a great route that really challenged him. I think he was proud because to him this felt like his hardest route to date (regardless of grades which are all over the place for his size).

He normally trains indoors with his team 3 days a week for 2 hours a day. Then we usually get outside for a day or two each week (or do another longer gym session if the weather is bad). We try to do several week long outdoor trips during the year where we are climbing as much as possible.

My 10-year-old just like playing around on 6a routes on a top rope. How come you think some kids are willing to push super hard taking long falls?
I think Bayes can push himself because he has built up this mindset from an early age. He is also pretty passionate about completing things that he tries and that motivates him quite a bit. Over the past year he has gotten pretty comfortable when taking falls, but he still is a bit hesitant to go for things onsight. When he knows the moves, he doesn't think twice about the fall even if he's pumped. He's good at executing in that way. My wife and I usually belay him and try to give him a soft catch since he's so light. I will often pull in some slack with my left arm when he falls and then catch most of the fall with that arm letting out the rope. Then the belay device catches and I'll try to jump up a little. It can be tough sometimes.

For kids climbing the mental attitude is so important and highly variable across kids. Bayes isn't particularly strong when it comes to having goals and being dedicated to them. However, he's really good at trying hard and giving 100% when he is on a climb. He also has a strong belief in himself when he climbs. He can push through the pain of sharp holds too which is hard for kids. Most of all, he just loves climbing and has fun almost every day we go out. He likes to push himself, but he also enjoys just climbing mid-range stuff that is classic.

With the Tokyo Olympics starting in 3 days, there's not much time left to join our new prediction game! Pick your top 5 male and female climbers, try to predict the outcome of the different disciplines, and collect points for every correct prediction. Once the official results are announced, each answer and ranking you predicted correctly will earn you 100 points and one ticket towards the raffle. If you are among the participants with the most points, you will be entered into the raffle for the adidas grand prize. All participants receive a one-month Vertical-Life Premium voucher, providing you with an extensive digital guidebook library, just in time for a summer road trip!

Vadim Timonov has done his third 8C in less than two weeks in Rocklands, Spray of Light. (c) Juliet Leonova

“I hate this boulder because my fingers don't fit into the crack. the main difficulty was in the first two moves. Finally, this battle is over after 3 sessions spent.

Including also three 8B+’, out of which Oliphants Dawn in just 15 min, and the flash of The Guest list 8B it should be one of the most impressive two weeks tick lists ever achieved in Rocklands.

Eliska Adamovska, who got the silver in the Euro Championship last year, won in Briancon after a great fight. Runner-up was Natalia Grossman meaning she got her seventh World Cup podium 2021.

Among the male, Stefano Ghisolfi won ahead of Dmitrii Fakirianov and Martín Stranik, after having done a remarkable save. As he failed to reach a hold, he basically pressed his hand against the wall creating compression on a huge volume.

It should be mentioned that the route setters have created possibly the most 3-D routes every creating many different solutions and drama from the beginning. One reason why nobody came close to the top, could be poor conditions due to the rain. (c) Jan Virt/IFSC

Irina Kuzmenko, #3 in the Euro Bouldering Championship in 2019, has done her third 8B in 2021, The Arch in Rocklands.

“Last trip in 2019 I did all the moves in one session and did not try to send it. This year just came and did it on my seventh attempts from the start. Hard topout, nice moves :) so happy I managed it quickly! Definitely came back stronger.

What is next? I’m working on Monkey Wedding (8B+). It is super hard but it feels I can do it :), maybe not this trip but still.

I did the first easiest part in one session and I am working on the hardest and the longest move in the second part. Hard to do it in a stable way but I believe it possible!