8 August 2021
Pierre Delas/Fanatic comments the Olympics from a french perpspective
What are your thoughts about Climbing in the Olympics?
I just watch qualifications. I was at the crag during finals.
1) we produced a great show for the mass media and the public. I think that the climbing movement, which is unique, is now shared with more and more people, who will start and enjoy climbing. We have a responsibility as media to educate them and to spread authentic climbing values. That's the main reason we created Fanatic: was to promote an outdoor climbing culture.
2) A critic about the comp format. I think that the rest in between the different disciplines were too short and we didn't watch the best climbing, especially in lead. Climbers were exhausted some got injured. It's not a good organization. I hope in Paris for the combined more time and rest could be better for the best show and performance. It could be like, one-day bouldering quali followed by one day lead quali one day rest and then the same for the finals.
3) The ranking with multiplication is too complex. We need to find a way to have a more simple ranking. That's my thoughts but I want to say that I'm more turned on outdoors. So my opinion doesn't really count, lol :)
Last critic, the ๐ฅ were quite bad in France on the tv. Often the angles were bad we didn't see them very well. They should deal with some filmmakers who know how to correctly film climbing.
How much coverage did Climbing get into general media in France?
Newspapers in France are mainly focused on team sports; rugby, football and handball. I dunno if some articles on climbing were written about climbing. I think that climbing has seen maximum ten lines in French press. I think just the results.
I just watch qualifications. I was at the crag during finals.
1) we produced a great show for the mass media and the public. I think that the climbing movement, which is unique, is now shared with more and more people, who will start and enjoy climbing. We have a responsibility as media to educate them and to spread authentic climbing values. That's the main reason we created Fanatic: was to promote an outdoor climbing culture.
2) A critic about the comp format. I think that the rest in between the different disciplines were too short and we didn't watch the best climbing, especially in lead. Climbers were exhausted some got injured. It's not a good organization. I hope in Paris for the combined more time and rest could be better for the best show and performance. It could be like, one-day bouldering quali followed by one day lead quali one day rest and then the same for the finals.
3) The ranking with multiplication is too complex. We need to find a way to have a more simple ranking. That's my thoughts but I want to say that I'm more turned on outdoors. So my opinion doesn't really count, lol :)
Last critic, the ๐ฅ were quite bad in France on the tv. Often the angles were bad we didn't see them very well. They should deal with some filmmakers who know how to correctly film climbing.
How much coverage did Climbing get into general media in France?
Newspapers in France are mainly focused on team sports; rugby, football and handball. I dunno if some articles on climbing were written about climbing. I think that climbing has seen maximum ten lines in French press. I think just the results.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


