10 August 2021

Two 8B's in Rocklands by Staša Gejo

Staša Gejo, bronze in the World Championship in 2018, has during a three weeks trip to Rocklands done five boulders 8A to 8B, including three possible First Female Ascents. There is a video coming out soon. (c) Matthias Woidneck

The Arch 8B: "Soft, took me only 2 sessions, but very very beautiful! I like lowballs, what can I say..." Mooiste Meisie 8B: "5 sessions. Nice block, perfect line, but the amount of toe hooks reduces the rating... Drove me crazy, doing all these similar moves from the bottom to the crux... Almost gave up on it after 3 sessions, the toughest mental battle I had with a boulder. Maybe FFA?"
Shosholoza 8A+: "The best boulder in the whole world! 2 sessions. Also, FFA?"
Oral Office 8A+: "Mega jump, loved trying it! 2 sessions."
Pendragon 8A: "Such a waste of time. Dabbed a million times. Nice holds."

What did you think about the Olympics and the bouldering in particular?
Sad I didn't make it there. Looked magnificent. Less fortunate for some athletes due to shortcomings of the combined format, but fairly exciting to follow. Setters need better testers, especially for the female category. There has to be a fresh person who is capable of actually climbing the boulders, and that is on the level of the competing climbers. There should be a female who is well trained. Otherwise, it will always be messy.
0 comments
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Related

8a has published a “Climber of the Year” list for the past 22 years. We base it upon the best information and reporting available, and we give extra credit to multi-disciplin climbers performing in both competitions and on the rock. We also take FAs, trad, multi-pitches, and DWS into consideration. …

Staša Gejo sent Mécanique élémentaire (8B+) in Fontainebleau last November and now the mini-doc video is out. "After 3 sessions last week, and falling at the swing around 5 or 6 times, I did it with frozen fingers, pumped and exhausted. It was a battle to remember. I was incredibly happy though. I h…

El Gauhara 8A+ by Stasa Gejo

Staša Gejo stopped by in Zillertal on her way back home after being #6 in Meiringen, (c) Martin Rahn, and did a very quick ascent of El Gauhara (8A+). ”Did the …