Alberto Ginés López (ESP) is the first Olympic Gold medallist in Sport Climbing. Nathaniel Coleman (USA) took silver. Jakob Schubert (AUT) won Bronze. The big favourites for gold, Adam Ondra (CZE) and Tomoa Narasaki, (JPN) narrowly missed the podium. Narasaki's slip in the speed stage final probably cost him the gold.
The lead stage could not have been more dramatic. The routesetters (Adam Pustelnik (POL), Jan Zbranek (CZE), Hiroshi Okano (JPN) and Akito Matsushima (JPN)) set a fantastic final route, that got a Top and on which every climber went into fighting mode.

Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert both needed to win the stage in order to get a medal. Schubert was last out, after Ondra reached 42+. Alberto Ginés López was #1 overall after having climbed to hold 38+ but could lose the gold to Adam Ondra, depending on the results for Schubert. As Schubert grabbed hold #39, Ondra was in the gold position for some seconds before Schubert, in full control got to hold #43, moving Ondra to 6th position and Alberto getting back his gold. Then Schubert topped out, apparently with power to spare, creating an extraordinary show and drama that will go to the history books. (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11



Combined Final Results
1 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 1 * 7 * 4 = 28
2 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 6 * 1 * 5 = 30
3 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 7 * 5 * 1 = 35
4 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 2 * 3 * 6 = 36
5 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 3 * 2 * 7 = 42
6 Ondra Adam (CZE) 4 * 6 * 2 = 48
7 Duffy Colin (USA) 5 * 4 * 3 = 60
- Mawem Bassa (FRA) DNS

Big drama in the Bouldering final where Nathaniel Colman (USA) won with two tops. The ranks 2 - 5 were decided by number of attempts to the zone on the second boulder as they all flashed the first boulder and then flashed the zone on the last boulder. Mickael Mawem was ranked as #2 as he was the only one flashing all three zones.
Adam Ondra, who looked strongest on the last boulder, was ranked #6.
As it stands, it is a totally open affair among Mawem, Narasaki (JPN) and Coleman, all tied with six points and Alberto Ginés López with seven points. By using the qualifying rankings, Alberto will take the gold ahead of Coleman. Jakob Schubert would go from the bottom in the field to a bronze.

1 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 3 * 2 (1T3z 1 3) = 6
2 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 2 * 3 (1T3z 1 5) = 6
3 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 6 * 1 (2T3z 4 4)= 6 (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11

4 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 1 * 7 (0T3z 0 9) = 7
5 Duffy Colin (USA) 5 * 4 (1T3z 1 5) = 20
6 Ondra Adam (CZE) 4 * 6 (1T2z 2 2) = 24
7 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 7 * 5 (1T3z 1 7) = 35
8. Mawem Bassa (FRA) - | DNS - | DNS - | - DNS

In the first ever Olympic final stage, Spanish lead specialist Alberto Ginés López took first place in Speed. In his first race, his opponent Colin Duffy (USA) false started, then Ginés López beat Adam Ondra, who had had a free pass to Top 4 after Bassa Mawem’s DNS due to injury. In the final heat, Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) slipped on the so-called Tomoa start, and Ginés López didn’t let his chance pass. The young Spaniard now has excellent chances for a medal due to the multiplication format. In practice, he most probably only needs to be #5 in one of the remaining disciplines.

Mikael Mawem (FRA) placed third, after some slips on his race against Narasaki. Notable was Adam Ondra setting an impressive PB of 6.86s on what might have been the last speed run of his career. Nathaniel Coleman (AUT) finished 6th and Jakob Schubert (AUT) finished 7th. While nothing is decided, Ginés López and Ondra have gotten a great start.

Speed Stage Results

1 Ginés López Alberto 6.42 (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11
2 Narasaki Tomoa 7.82
3 Mawem Mickael 6.47
4 Ondra Adam 6.86
5 Duffy Colin 6.35
6 Coleman Nathaniel FALL
7 Schubert Jakob WILDCARD
8 Mawem Bassa DNS

Jon Glassberg, 8a member who has done 8C, reports through his Insta, " The bus dropped off the competitors and @adam.ondra walked in like he owned the place. With Bassa out because of an injury, Adam is going to walk into bouldering with at least a 4 ranking. "

Bassa Mawem, who won Speed in great style and secured a position in the final, seemed to have torn his left biceps at the start of the Lead qualification. He let go and did not untie but instead tried to just hold his bicep in place. Most probably he will not take part in the final. As he was ranked as #1 in Speed, the starting order was that he was going to meet the slowest finalists from the qualification, i.e. Adam Ondra. In practice, this would mean, that Ondra automatically will be qualified to the Speed semi.

On their half, of the Speed starting list, are also Colin Duffy and Alberto Gines Lopez, battling for a run against Ondra in the semi. In other words, whoever wins that quarterfinal is almost secured making the Speed finals as Ondra is about one second slower.

The further impact of Bassa's injury is that whoever wins the predicted semi, Tomoa Narasaki against Mickael Mawev, will most probably also win the final. We should not forget that Nathaniel Coleman who faces Mickael in the quarter-final looked like he could make close to six seconds which will set some pressure on Michael to push at his very best.

Due to the multiplication format, the chances for Jakob Schubert taking the gold has dropped significantly, due to Bassa's very unfortunate injury. Most probably, he will now end as #7 and all the others will be moved one step higher in the ranking, with a much greater impact. In theory, Bassa might consider trying to do at least the quarterfinal against Adam Ondra, as he might win such a race even injured.


It should be mentioned that I am not 100 % sure about the thoughts above. It has been said in the media that if Bassa retires, Alex Megos could possibly take his position. That would be very strange as then how would Bassa be ranked overall? Another option could be that the Speed starting order could be redone and Bassa is ranked as #8, meaning Michael would get the free ticket to the semi.

1. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 1 * 1 * 4 = 4
2. Adam Ondra CZE 4 * 3 * 1 = 12
3. Colin Duffy USA 2 * 4 * 3 = 24
4. Michael Mawem FRA 3 * 2 * 6 = 36
5. Jakob Schubert AUT 7 * 5 * 2 = 70
6. Alberto Gines Lopez 5 * 7 * 5 = 175
7. Nathaniel Coleman 6 * 6 * 7 = 252
8. Bassa Mawem FRA DNS

It might feel strange that the qualification winner Michael Mawem is just predicted to be #4. The reason for this is simply that it has been predicted that he will lose against Narasaki in the Speed semifinal. If he instead wins that race and then also wins the final, and all other predictions remain the same, he will be runner up after Narasaki overall. In the same way, if Alberto Gines Lopez wins against Colin Duffy in their Speed quarterfinal, and all other predictions remain the same, Alberto will get the Olympic bronze and Colin drops to #5.

The screenshot is from Olympics.com. It is noteworthy to mention that if Janja had dropped one hold earlier, Viktoriia Meshkova had knocked out Anouck Jaubert from the final.

As sensationally two female Speed specialists (Aleksandra Miroslaw and Anouck Jaubert) made it to the final, one of them could get a bronze. Furthermore, Janja Garnbret, 7th-best in the Speed quali among the finalists, will run against Jaubert, #2 in the quali, in the 1/4-final meaning, Garnbret probably finishes #5 in Speed. Prior to the Olympics, it was expected that Janja would be #2 in Speed in the final making it almost impossible for the other to reach her.

If Chaehyon Seo wins Lead and Garnbret again is #4, Seo will get the gold being #3 in Bouldering even if Garnbret wins in a superior style. The prediction is still that Garnbret gets the gold and that there will be no Speed specialists, but below is also an example of a possible sensational outcome.

1. Chaehyon Seo 8 * 3 * 1 = 24
2. Janja Garnbret 7 * 1 * 4 = 28
3. Anouck Jaubert 1 * 7 * 7 = 49

Once again great route setting and a great show but no Top. The big sensation was that Janja Garnbret (SLO) was only #4 and ten moves behind 17-year-old Chaehyon Seo (KOR). On the other hand, in 2019 Seo did win over Garnbret in four World Cups out of six. Runner-up was Jessica Pilz (AUT), who injured a finger badly in May, followed by Akiyo Noguchi (JPN). Interesting was also that Speed specialist Anouck Jaubert (FRA) followed up her great Bouldering performance by being #15. This means that two Speed specialists have qualified for the final. The biggest setback was Laura Rogora (ITA) being #10 after having struggled doing practically all, somewhat reachy moves, right from the start. (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder than 11

1 Seo Chaehyun (KOR) 40+
2 Pilz Jessica (AUT)33+
3 Nonaka Miho (JPN) 30+
4 Garnbret Janja (SLO) 30
5 Meshkova Viktoriia (RUS) 29+
6 Noguchi Akiyo (JPN) 27+
7 Krampl Mia (SLO) 26+ (3:16)
8 Raboutou Brooke (USA) 26+ (3:40)
9 Chanourdie Julia (FRA) 25+
10 Rogora Laura (ITA) 25
11 Condie Kyra (USA) 22+
12 Yip Alannah (CAN) 21+ (2:14)
13 Coxsey Shauna (GBR) 21+ (2:23)
14 Klingler Petra (SUI) 16+ (1:49)
15 Jaubert Anouck (FRA) 16+ (2:14)
16 Mackenzie Oceania (AUS) 15+
17 Kaplina Iuliia (RUS) 14+
18 SONG YiLing (CHN) 13+
19 Miroslaw Aleksandra (POL) 12
20 Sterkenburg Erin (RSA) 20 7+

Here is the results after 2/3 stages. All the favourites have set themselves in a good position in order to advance to the final. For the male, 550 points were needed to make it to the Top-8. We have added a speculation Lead score for each woman in order to get as close to 500 points as possible. The biggest sensation is that there are actually chances to have two female Speed specialists into the final, as Anouck Jaubert should get below 500 points. However, it is very hard to predict which score is needed to make the final. It just might be closer to 400. On the picture by Jon Glassberg/Louder than 11 is Viktoriia Meshkova who probably needs to be Top-5 in order to make the final.

1 Garnbret Janja (SLO) 14 * 1 = 14
2 Miroslaw Aleksandra (POL) 20 * 1 = 20
3 Raboutou Brooke (USA) 12 * 2 = 24
4 Jaubert Anouck (FRA) 2 *13 = 26 ( * 19 speculated in Lead = 494)
5 Noguchi Akiyo (JPN) 9 * 3 = 27 ( * 19 = 513)
6 Nonaka Miho (JPN) 4 * 8 = 32 ( * 16 = 512)
7 SONG YiLing (CHN) 3 * 19 = 57 ( * 9 = 513)
8 Coxsey Shauna (GBR) 16 * 4 = 64 ( * 7 = 448
9 Condie Kyra (USA) 7 * 11 = 77 ( * 6 = 462)
10 Seo Chaehyun (KOR) 17 * 5 = 85 ( * 6 = 510)
11 Kaplina Iuliia (RUS) 5 * 18 = 90 ( * 5 = 450)
12 Meshkova Viktoriia (RUS) 15 * 5 = 90 ( * 5 = 450)
13 Yip Alannah (CAN) 6 * 16 = 96 ( * 5 = 480)
14 Pilz Jessica (AUT) 11 * 9 = 99 ( * 5 = 499)
15 Klingler Petra (SUI) 10 * 10 = 100 ( * 5 = 500)
16 Chanourdie Julia (FRA) 8 * 15 = 120 ( * 4 = 480)
17 Rogora Laura (ITA) 19 * 7 = 133 ( * 3 = 399)
18 Mackenzie Oceania (AUS) 13 * 12 = 156 ( *3 = 468)
19 Krampl Mia (SLO) 18 * 14 = 252 ( *2 = 504)
20 Sterkenburg Erin (RSA) 20 * 17 = 340 ( * 1 = 340)