5 August 2021

Alberto Ginés López (ESP) wins gold in extraordinary show and drama

Alberto Ginés López (ESP) is the first Olympic Gold medallist in Sport Climbing. Nathaniel Coleman (USA) took silver. Jakob Schubert (AUT) won Bronze. The big favourites for gold, Adam Ondra (CZE) and Tomoa Narasaki, (JPN) narrowly missed the podium. Narasaki's slip in the speed stage final probably cost him the gold.
The lead stage could not have been more dramatic. The routesetters (Adam Pustelnik (POL), Jan Zbranek (CZE), Hiroshi Okano (JPN) and Akito Matsushima (JPN)) set a fantastic final route, that got a Top and on which every climber went into fighting mode.

Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert both needed to win the stage in order to get a medal. Schubert was last out, after Ondra reached 42+. Alberto Ginés López was #1 overall after having climbed to hold 38+ but could lose the gold to Adam Ondra, depending on the results for Schubert. As Schubert grabbed hold #39, Ondra was in the gold position for some seconds before Schubert, in full control got to hold #43, moving Ondra to 6th position and Alberto getting back his gold. Then Schubert topped out, apparently with power to spare, creating an extraordinary show and drama that will go to the history books. (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11



Combined Final Results
1 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 1 * 7 * 4 = 28
2 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 6 * 1 * 5 = 30
3 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 7 * 5 * 1 = 35
4 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 2 * 3 * 6 = 36
5 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 3 * 2 * 7 = 42
6 Ondra Adam (CZE) 4 * 6 * 2 = 48
7 Duffy Colin (USA) 5 * 4 * 3 = 60
- Mawem Bassa (FRA) DNS
13 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Favorites
Will Bosi claims the first repeat of Burden of Dreams (9A)

William Bosi has done the coveted second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams (9A) in Lappnor, Finland, confirming the 9A grade. It was put up as the …

Katie Lamb makes history

Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…

"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …