
4 August 2021
Chaehyon Seo (KOR) wins Lead and puts pressure on Garnbret
Once again great route setting and a great show but no Top. The big sensation was that Janja Garnbret (SLO) was only #4 and ten moves behind 17-year-old Chaehyon Seo (KOR). On the other hand, in 2019 Seo did win over Garnbret in four World Cups out of six. Runner-up was Jessica Pilz (AUT), who injured a finger badly in May, followed by Akiyo Noguchi (JPN). Interesting was also that Speed specialist Anouck Jaubert (FRA) followed up her great Bouldering performance by being #15. This means that two Speed specialists have qualified for the final. The biggest setback was Laura Rogora (ITA) being #10 after having struggled doing practically all, somewhat reachy moves, right from the start. (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder than 11
1 Seo Chaehyun (KOR) 40+
2 Pilz Jessica (AUT)33+
3 Nonaka Miho (JPN) 30+
4 Garnbret Janja (SLO) 30
5 Meshkova Viktoriia (RUS) 29+
6 Noguchi Akiyo (JPN) 27+
7 Krampl Mia (SLO) 26+ (3:16)
8 Raboutou Brooke (USA) 26+ (3:40)
9 Chanourdie Julia (FRA) 25+
10 Rogora Laura (ITA) 25
11 Condie Kyra (USA) 22+
12 Yip Alannah (CAN) 21+ (2:14)
13 Coxsey Shauna (GBR) 21+ (2:23)
14 Klingler Petra (SUI) 16+ (1:49)
15 Jaubert Anouck (FRA) 16+ (2:14)
16 Mackenzie Oceania (AUS) 15+
17 Kaplina Iuliia (RUS) 14+
18 SONG YiLing (CHN) 13+
19 Miroslaw Aleksandra (POL) 12
20 Sterkenburg Erin (RSA) 20 7+
1 Seo Chaehyun (KOR) 40+
2 Pilz Jessica (AUT)33+
3 Nonaka Miho (JPN) 30+
4 Garnbret Janja (SLO) 30
5 Meshkova Viktoriia (RUS) 29+
6 Noguchi Akiyo (JPN) 27+
7 Krampl Mia (SLO) 26+ (3:16)
8 Raboutou Brooke (USA) 26+ (3:40)
9 Chanourdie Julia (FRA) 25+
10 Rogora Laura (ITA) 25
11 Condie Kyra (USA) 22+
12 Yip Alannah (CAN) 21+ (2:14)
13 Coxsey Shauna (GBR) 21+ (2:23)
14 Klingler Petra (SUI) 16+ (1:49)
15 Jaubert Anouck (FRA) 16+ (2:14)
16 Mackenzie Oceania (AUS) 15+
17 Kaplina Iuliia (RUS) 14+
18 SONG YiLing (CHN) 13+
19 Miroslaw Aleksandra (POL) 12
20 Sterkenburg Erin (RSA) 20 7+
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Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ



