NEWS

Great Lines
16 August 2021

Great Lines

With all the choices on offer in Tirol, it can be hard to pick where to start rock climbing. Our expert jury has revealed their favourite sport climbing routes across Tirol: The โ€œGreat Linesโ€ meet the criteria of natural beauty and setting, technical difficulty, rock quality, as well as physical and mental challenges. Have a look at the following routes:

โ— Number One Direkt, Going, Wilder Kaiser
โ— Puls 2000 in Leutasch, near Seefeld
โ— Le Miracle, Niederthai, Oฬˆtztal Valley
โ— WeiรŸer Riese, Laฬˆngenfeld, Oฬˆtztal Valley
โ— Another Play in Paradise, Lavant, East Tirol

Each one of these routes guarantees a climbing adventure full of fun and inspiration. They represent a huge diversity in rock climbing and offer incomparable views of the Tirolean landscape. Visit our homepage for detailed information.

Ragman 2.0 8A+ by Tabitha Eckfeld
Tabitha Eckfeld, who the last five weeks has done three 8A's, has done her first 8A+, Ragman 2.0 in Silvretta. Full video on Insta. The spotter holds the crash pad so the sun does not get into Tabitha's eyes.

"I am very happy that I can climb hard boulders again. I've been suffering from really bad chest tension for a year. So I had to do long backroll sessions several times a week. Now it's getting better and I think this full-body regeneration made me stronger. Stronger than without my illnesses and normal training."

What was that Ninja thing I found by Googling you?
I really like Ninja. I was the best woman in 2018. But I crashed my knee badly in the competition. So I could not climb for 2 months. So I stoped ninja slowly. Climbing was more important to me. That's a bit sad. I really love Ninja warrior. But I don't want to get injured again..๐Ÿ˜… But climbing and Ninja are a good training combination.

Here is a fictive results list based on adding the three disciplines together instead of multiplying them.

1. Tomoa Narasaki 2 + 3 + 6 = 11
2. Alberto Gines Lopez 1 + 7 + 4 = 12
3. Nathaniel Coleman 6 + 1 + 5 = 12
4. Mickael Mawem 3 + 2 + 7 = 12
5. Adam Ondra 4 + 6 + 2 = 12
6. Colin Duffy 5 + 4 + 3 = 12
7. Jakob Schubert 7 + 5 + 1 = 13

Splitting all five with 12 points are based on who has the best individual ranking in any discipline.

Olympics voted almost Great = 7b
Based on almost 2 500 unique votes, we can see that, on average, the grading score was 7b, i.e. almost Great, on the scale; Excellent, Very Good, Great, OK, Boring. The most commented thing to dislike was the multiplication format.

El hijo libre 8c by Iziar Martinez (16)
Iziar Martinez, who last year did five 8c's, has done her first in 2021, El hijo libre in Rodellar. "This summer has been crazy. I have been competing in a lot of competitions. I just needed a little rest from all that, so I went to Rodellar and I didn't know what to try, and I saw this incredible line that I wanted to try last year and I thought it would be nice to give it a try."

In total, the 16-year-old has done 13 IFSC comps in 2021 including getting a bronze in a Euro Youth Boulder Cup. Next up is the Youth World Championship in Russia.

Two Andrada 9a's in Rodellar by Jonathan Flor
Jonathan Flor, who previously has done 47 routes 8c+/9a and harder, reports on Insta that he has done two Dani Andrada 9a's in Rodellar, De Battre Mon Coeur S'Est Arrรชtรฉ and Cosi se Arete. The Spaniard also did Cosi fan tutte 8c (+) on his second go after a good flash attempt. All three routes he did in just a couple of days. (c) Inga Patarcic

14 August 2021

47m Climbing Tower

E-bike on Cรฉรผse approach
Cรฉรผse is often referred to as the best climbing crag in the world. Most think that the only setback is the one hour approach going up hill. Stefano Ghisolfi comes with the great news on Insta that E-bikes are now available.

Variant 8C by Everett Sloane
Everett Sloane has done We can build you 8B+, video, as well as Variant 8C in Lincoln Lake. The latter should is possibly the second ascent of a Drew Ruana creation.

โ€I started with the original boulder "We Can build you" v14. Drew Ruana found some super good beta with some difficult opposing heel hooks that fit my style really well. So after 3 days of effort I was able to put down the higher start.

Drew put up the low start -Variant a few weeks back so Iโ€™d been wanting to try it since I saw it. Iโ€™mnot sure but I think this may be the second ascent. This start adds a pretty powerful crimpy 7C+ or 8A directly into "We can build you" with no rest. The whole climb ended up being 20 difficult moves in a row. The final sequence is a really technical slopey traverse that I had to work for a long time to get my beta just right. I sent Variant the session after "We can build you" so I guess it was 4 sessions total.โ€

Hades 9a by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (16)
Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi has done his second 9a in 2021, Hades in Nassereith. "What a nice endurance rote! Could've done it 5th go, but slipped off the wet undercling twice. Surely a classic line out there! Would still say that it's easier than the Turkish Haircut (9a) in Turkey."

What is your next plan and what about comps?
Hopefully will go to Frankenjura in the middle of September and then to Turkey for November. Going to Voronezh and then I think I'm done for the comp season.