How to transfer gym skills to enjoying rock

During this summer I have seen and heard many stories about how very skilled indoor climbers have a hard time transferring to outdoors. One reason is of course that the gym grades are so much softer so these novice outdoor climbers set the bar way too high.

Another reason is that gym climbers lack training in using very small footholds or smearing. Furthermore, outdoors there are often more resting positions and cracks or other strange way to use holds.

The best and easiest way to learn how to climb better outdoors is simply to just climb as many different routes as possible. Skip going for a personal best and instead climb easier grades.

Once you start enjoying climbing easier routes and appreciating being outdoors, your grade anxiety will disappear. Your drive will be more into climbing and not just to accomplishing hard routes. This is probably, for most climbers, the best way of transferring your gym skill to outdoors.