7 September 2021

Short or long time focus/progress

It is quite easy to get short time progress. Just find a route of your style and physical advantages and start projecting and you will probably set a new grade PB. However, your new PB will probably not be evidence that you have become a better climber. Instead, you have just sub-optimized what you are capable to do.

The setbacks of such a short-time approach are, besides getting injured, that you build up more pressure/anxiety evolving more of a grade hunter instead of enjoying the full spectrum of a "lifestyle climber." This is a process I have seen over and over again, often resulting in climbers taking long breaks from climbing or quitting altogether.

The other approach is to do as many of the best climbers in the world, ("the ones having the most fun"), not going for long-time projects until they had climbed for ten years and almost reached their full potential. Instead, just climb as many different routes as possible and focus on what is most fun, instead of grade progress. This will, most probably, make you climb more hours per week and that you will have less anxiety once you later go for an onsight PB.
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