Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3 9a by Roch Oddo

Sunday, 5 September

Roch Oddo has done Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3 9a in Magic Woods. It is a seven-bolt extension to the boulder Never Ending Story 8B+ and also 8C has been suggested although clipping into a rope. Previously Roch has only done an 8b route as his focus is bouldering, where he has done several 8B's. (c) Samuel Tour

"I started trying this boulder last summer with the intention of only doing part 2, but realising how perfect the line was I immediately started to work on the low start. I did the 8b+ on my second trip (with a really uncommon toe hook beta on the crux). It felt like unfinished business to stop on the rest and the route is the better exit to me. So I started working on endurance and went back once more to finish it. I spent about 6 weeks on it in total and finished it right as my last year of med school is starting, which will represent a huge switch from the climbing focused lifestyle I could live till now. All in all, it just comes as a perfect ending to a really nice chapter of my life"

How was it to tackle the this endurance challenge?
It is really hard to get into it, but once you learn to enjoy the pump it's actually not that bad. I would advice every bouldering specialist to at least give it one serious training cycle, it is an acquired taste for sure. I did have some trouble going back into bouldering mode for the first part again, if I could start again I would have kept a little more max strenght into my regime. The training worked wonders tho, I went to the top the first time I got to the rest (after failing twice 2 moves into the route completly pumped on the previous trip). I think the right balance between burly bouldering strenght and a minimal level of endurance is one of the big challenge on this one.

4  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date A Reply A

RELATED NEWS

NUMBERS

Tuesday, 19 January

Add crags to the database

We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.

NUMBERS

Monday, 12 October

Systematic Devaluing ethics

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…

EDITORIAL

Wednesday, 18 May

No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs

During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …