The 100 m world record is 9.58 and there might be 10 guys running sub 10 seconds every year. How could we relate climbing grades into a fixed measurement understanding how good we are in comparison to 100-meter sprinters? First, we have to consider that climbing is a very new sport with a limited number of persons actually trying it in comparison to sprint running. In 50 years, you could still win the world champion doing 9.58 at the same time there will be multiple guys and possibly also girls having done 9c. Here is my current best speculation trying to evaluate how impressive in relative terms climbing grades are in comparison with 100 meters times.

10a = 9.50
9c = 9.90
9b = 10.30
9a = 10.70
8c = 11.10
8b = 11.50
8a = 11.90

It should be noted that the female world record is 10.49 at the same time as 9b/+ (10.10 seconds) is the highest achieved female grade. Climbing is probably one of the most genders equalise physical sport in the world. Furthermore, climbing is unique when it comes to age as there have been climbers 12 to 50-years old that have done 9a, i.e. done 10.70 if compared to 100 meters dash. The world record for both 12 and 45-year-olds is 11.72 in 100 meters dash.

Adam Ondra has done his 43rd 9a+, Molekuly in Moravský kras. "Wow, this thing actually goes! Very short boulderproblem on nonexistent holds, epitome of local climbing. Then 8b+ topout."

Full video on his Insta and remember to turn off the sound if you are at work as there are plenty of normal Ondra screaming :) "I think I tried this thing 4 times during the last 12 years 🤔, only to find out I had no idea how to climb this thing and doubted if it could ever be climbed."

Katherine Choong, who previously in 2021 has done two 8c+, has done the 300m long, Une Jolie Fleur dans une Peau de Vache 8b in Paroi du Duc, Gorges du Verdon. (c) Tara Kerzhner

Katherine has been an active competitive climber since 2006, having done 87 IFSC events until 2021. In 2009, she won the Youth World Champion and as a senior, she has reached the final once. Including two 9a's and some other hard multi-pitches, the Swizz must be considered as one of the best female multi-discipline climbers in the world, the last five years.

"Located in the impressive Paroi du Duc in the Gorges du Verdon, each pitch is absolutely incredible (6b, 8b, 7b, 8a, 5c, 8a, 6b)! Lots of tufas on a (very) overhanging wall where you can twist drop knees, kneebars, it’s not a surprise that it suits my style! Until now Jim (her partner) has always patiently accompanied me in my projects. His presence has been crucial in their success but I rarely had the opportunity to support him in a multi-pitch route. This time, we really wanted to find a common project, to try to climb each pitch together in the same day and to share the pressure and the success (the plan was that I would lead each pitch and that I would come back down to belay Jim in the three key pitches in the 8th grade).

We climbed two days to the top to find out our beta in the top pitches. The rain had then made the wall wet, especially in the 2nd pitch (8b), we spent two other days just working this pitch without going higher, the conditions not being so good to attempt a send. Finally, on the 5th day, in a battle of resistance in each pitch, but motivated by each other's successive send, we managed to climb each pitch to the top without a single fall! Once again I am incredibly grateful to have been able to live this beautiful adventure and to have shared it with my partner in life."

Jonathan Siegrist has repeated Stefano Ghisolfi's Lapsus in Andonno. In total, Jonathan has now done 60+ routes 8c+/9a and harder which puts him #6 on that list. The American tried the route in March 2020 but left in a hurry. Now they are back enjoying Italy again for a month and you can follow him at Insta

"A proper enduro test piece on a beautiful wall! I really enjoyed the style of this route. I chose not to use the kneebar because I wanted the challenge, and to climb the route as Stefano did. Like this, I think the route could be low-end 9b. At first, I thought easier, but I fell in the final boulder problem quite a few times even when arriving quite fresh, which changed my mind."

Do you think it would have been easier with knee pads?
For sure the route is easier with the knee bar - it’s just before the hardest part at the very end. I use pads when it feels super important or when it’s the established style of the route - like in Rifle, or in Ramirole for instance. I really don’t like the feeling of climbing with them though, so I prefer not to use them when I don’t have to. It’s just my personal preferred way of climbing. I think it’s fine to use a knee pad honestly! Some people love this style, it’s just not my personal favourite. If you use a pad and find a better or easier way I just think it’s important to also downgrade and be honest. Anyone should be able to climb however they like.

Martin Stráník has done his 13th 8C, Double Back-Flip in Bahratal and here is the video. It was put up in 2012 by M. Scholz as an 8C/+ and Stranik made the second ascent. "I needed just two sessions to complete boulder, great power endurance climbing on beautiful sandstone! Soft 8C in my opinion."

Stranik got the silver in the Boulder World Championship in 2007 but actually, 2021 has been his best competition year since he started to focus on Lead some years ago. In the overall World Cup, he was #6 after having been on the podium twice.

How come you think you are in such good shape? Could it also relate to the new perspective of being a father?
For sure it is because of preparations for this year's World Cups, training went well, I felt fit and confident and have had a good season. Spending time with the twins are really great and mind-clearing. Then I am even more motivated to climb and train hard. They are 16 months now, soon my climbing partners.

How come you have switched to Lead in comps but still focus on Boulders outdoors?
I am basically a boulderer but in last years I found that nowadays power endurance lead routes on comps fit me well and I really enjoy trying hard on them. I am a power-based climber and what lead routes are about and not about parkour moves and hard slabs, what is hard to train for me.

Camilla Bendazzoli has done her third 8c, Mr Teroldego in Arco. "As regards the process the route felt good in the first part, the hardest in my opinion, since the very first tries, but there is a second crux in the upper part which is trickier, mostly because success depends on the conditions of the day. In my case, on Saturday there were excellent weather conditions and I was able to stick the move and reach the top. It was a really lovely day spent with friends :)" (c) Georgia Tesio

Climbing has the full interview where Anna Hazelnutt says, "I think the route was actually relatively safe." Impressively, Anna started to trad climb in 2021 and this was her first ever hard trad route. The videos is excellent and it sure does look scary. Actually, twice her placed gear falls out!

It says 5.13a/b R (7c+/8a R=dangerous) in the Youtube presentation which is strange as it previously has been considered 8a/+. Furthermore, the R added after the grade should mean that you probably will seriously injure yourself if you fall in the wrong place. In practice, a "relatively safe" 8a/+ does not convert to UK E9 grade which only a handful of females previously have reached. The UK grading system is based on a combination of how hard and dangerous it is to onsight trad routes.