How fast is 8a and 9c etc?

EDITORIAL

Thursday, 28 October

The 100 m world record is 9.58 and there might be 10 guys running sub 10 seconds every year. How could we relate climbing grades into a fixed measurement understanding how good we are in comparison to 100-meter sprinters? First, we have to consider that climbing is a very new sport with a limited number of persons actually trying it in comparison to sprint running. In 50 years, you could still win the world champion doing 9.58 at the same time there will be multiple guys and possibly also girls having done 9c. Here is my current best speculation trying to evaluate how impressive in relative terms climbing grades are in comparison with 100 meters times.

10a = 9.50
9c = 9.90
9b = 10.30
9a = 10.70
8c = 11.10
8b = 11.50
8a = 11.90

It should be noted that the female world record is 10.49 at the same time as 9b/+ (10.10 seconds) is the highest achieved female grade. Climbing is probably one of the most genders equalise physical sport in the world. Furthermore, climbing is unique when it comes to age as there have been climbers 12 to 50-years old that have done 9a, i.e. done 10.70 if compared to 100 meters dash. The world record for both 12 and 45-year-olds is 11.72 in 100 meters dash.

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