26 October 2021

Lapsus 9b (a+) by Jonathan Siegrist

Jonathan Siegrist has repeated Stefano Ghisolfi's Lapsus in Andonno. In total, Jonathan has now done 60+ routes 8c+/9a and harder which puts him #6 on that list. The American tried the route in March 2020 but left in a hurry. Now they are back enjoying Italy again for a month and you can follow him at Insta

"A proper enduro test piece on a beautiful wall! I really enjoyed the style of this route. I chose not to use the kneebar because I wanted the challenge, and to climb the route as Stefano did. Like this, I think the route could be low-end 9b. At first, I thought easier, but I fell in the final boulder problem quite a few times even when arriving quite fresh, which changed my mind."

Do you think it would have been easier with knee pads?
For sure the route is easier with the knee bar - it’s just before the hardest part at the very end. I use pads when it feels super important or when it’s the established style of the route - like in Rifle, or in Ramirole for instance. I really don’t like the feeling of climbing with them though, so I prefer not to use them when I don’t have to. It’s just my personal preferred way of climbing. I think it’s fine to use a knee pad honestly! Some people love this style, it’s just not my personal favourite. If you use a pad and find a better or easier way I just think it’s important to also downgrade and be honest. Anyone should be able to climb however they like.
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