Marta Palou has repeated Jose Luis Palou’s La Gioconda (9a) in Rodellar. It is an extension to an 8c and in total 40 m long roof climb with hard cruxes and good kneebar rests all the way to the top.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and what went into completing it?
Last year I sent my first 8c+, and this year I wanted to try something a bit harder. I work in Rodellar for half of the year, so having a hard project there is really convenient because I can just go for a couple of attempts and then head to work. However, when I arrived this season, I injured a finger pulley, so I honestly didn’t think it would be possible to climb these grades so soon. One month after the injury I managed to send El hijo libre (8c), and now, just three months after getting injured, climbing my first 9a feels incredible!

And today, only 3 days after sending Gioconda, I went back to El Museo and sent DA VINCI EXTENSION (8c) too! I can’t wait for my finger to fully recover so I can try all the routes I want to climb and spend as much time climbing as possible :))

Prudence Morgan-Wood, with two 8c’s under her belt, has done La reina de la Piscineta (8c) in Rodellar. The five star line was put up by Dani Andrada in 2008.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Ever since David [Zarco] did this last year I wanted to try this route but did not expect to get it done so quickly ! Only took me 5 tries of the upper section ! Found a really cool “Pru” beta involving sitting on a high right heel to get through the first crux. No idea how I held on for the rest. One of my biggest fights I think 🥰 thank you David for the betas and the belay and Caro and friends for the cheering on the send.

How long and steep is it?
The guide book says it’s 30m long but it feels a lot longer haha. It’s fairly similar in overhang to Cosi but slightly shorter I think 🤔 the most peculiar thing about it is always having to get to the top otherwise you lower straight into the middle of the pool (like you’d have to take your harness off and everything).

Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Céüse, one of the hardest sport routes in the world. Before her ascent, only five climbers had successfully completed the route.

The 35-metre route was bolted by Ethan Pringle in 2009 and first climbed by Alexander Megos in 2020. It is known as one of the toughest endurance challenges in sport climbing, with more than 80 difficult moves. Megos originally graded the route 9c after spending 60 days working on it. However, after the second ascent, Stefano Ghisolfi suggested a lower grade of 9b+, which has since become the widely accepted grade. Garnbret, 27, first tried the route shortly after the 2024 Olympic Games. She returned to Céüse several times and finally completed the climb on her fifth trip. © Jessica Glassberg/Red Bull Content Pool

”It feels incredible. It's honestly really hard to describe. When the send happens, everything is smooth, everything is perfect. You basically don't feel what you're climbing anymore. I think over the past five trips I learned a lot about myself. I learned a lot about Céüse and the route itself. I was maybe less nervous than on previous trips. I felt the strongest and felt like I was ready for the process. These two weeks really tested me in a way that nothing did before. It tested my patience.

On what was planned to be a warm-up on the route, I just felt perfect and kept going. I was just in my own bubble, in my own world, just doing what I love most. Unlike other days, not a lot of people were at the crag, so no loud cheering. It was one of the most serene moments in my rock climbing career.

This send is the accumulation of everything I learned over the past two years. This route taught me that with a calm mind and with patience, anything can happen. Never count yourself out – until the very last try, you need to fight hard. So, when it finally does happen, it’s an incredible feeling. All the work you’ve put in, all the commitment, the patience – when everything comes together, it feels incredible. Today my heart feels very full.

This is something that will stay with me forever. It will help me in future rock projects, in competitions, in training and whatever I do in life.

This send is the accumulation of everything I learned over the past two years. This route taught me that with a calm mind and with patience, anything can happen. Never count yourself out – until the very last try, you need to fight hard. So, when it finally does happen, it’s an incredible feeling. All the work you’ve put in, all the commitment, the patience – when everything comes together, it feels incredible. Today my heart feels very full.”

Putra Tri Ramadani topped the podium in Prague after a dominant performance throughout the competition. The 20-year-old, who placed ninth at last year's World Championships, won the qualification round and entered the final after sitting third in the semi-final, just one hold behind the leader. In the final, Ramadani delivered a convincing performance to secure a comfortable victory.
”This is the second final and the first medal for me, so obviously I’m happy and hopefully I can do this again next time. It was a diffcult final especially at the top section. It was a difficult route and definitely made me pumped.”

Annie Sanders continued her winning streak in Prague, taking gold in Lead just two days after topping the Boulder event. The 18-year-old shared first place with Chaehyun Seo in both qualification and semifinal rounds before pulling ahead in the final, climbing two holds higher to secure the victory.

”It was super fun. The route climber very bouldery which I think suited my style quite a bit. I managed to find the hand hold at the top that led to the crimp that helped me take the win. It was incredible. I’m really tired. But it was super cool and the crowd was super supportive. Yeah, I’m pretty excited.”

Elisa Lauretano, who in April sent her second 8B, has repeated Cristian Core’s Sheep Legend (8A+) in Rifugio Barbara - Lowrie.

Can you tell us more about Sheep Legend?
It doesn’t get many repeats because, aesthetically, it doesn’t jump out next to the other lines in the area. It’s a low, committing traverse on slopers and pinches with movement that feels way more like lead climbing than typical bouldering.

In summer 2024 I had a few chances to escape Turin’s heat and train at Rifugio Barbara, and this traverse was perfect for it. Dialing the beta took a while, but the real puzzle was finding the right sequence on the final crimps to actually send.

I’d already linked all the moves, but I never got a proper try. The condensation there is no joke, it soaks the rock and you can’t ignore it. Just a few days ago, after watching everyone climb all day, I stuck around as dusk hit. With my boyfriend’s help I found a way more efficient sequence through the last crux and after a rest day, I finally topped out.

What are your summer plans?
Last summer I couldn't climb at all because of an injury, so my main goal this summer is simple: climb as much as I can 😄 My dream line would be Hazel Grace (8B+) at Gotthard Pass, but let's see if I get the chance!

Jorge Diaz-Rullo continues to blur the line between routes and boulders. The Spanish ace has now climbed Adularia (8C) in Ticino, bringing his tally of 8C and harder boulders to ten. Better known for his sport climbing exploits, the 27-year-old has completed roughly 90 ascents between 9a and 9c, making him one of the most accomplished all-round climbers of his generation. (c) Mariana Fierro

”One of the best Boulders I ever climb! Close on the second session falling a few times on the last move and on my third session with perfect conditions I did in my first try.”

Annie Sanders, who won gold in the Lead World Cup last month, claimed her third Boulder World Cup victory in Prague. The 18-year-old narrowly made it into the final by a margin of just 0.1 points, and then took the lead in the final as the only competitor to complete the first boulder.

”The first one really suited me, like super well. When I went out to observation I thought ‘oh yeah, I’m going to do this boulder’ and I went out and executed.

Jennifer Wood, who sent four 8c’s last year, has completed Climb For Life (9a) in Custonaci and Ice King (8c) in Kilnsey.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and what went into completing it?
I first tried the route back in 2024 to see if I would enjoy a harder project and to be honest while I was having fun I was no where near the level and realised I’d have to get a lot stronger and fitter for the route. I spent 2025 addressing this in the UK, focusing my efforts on the steepest climbs at Kilnsey and went back Oct 2025 and felt much more worthy of being on a route of that grade. Another short trip in March and I’d managed the route in 2 halves despite some tricky conditions. So back in May for a week to try and dispatch but I kinda buckled under the pressure I’d put on myself, I was a nervous wreck. I left having got very close but also just mentally drained. We snuck away for a 4 day trip at the end of May and I think this just took the pressure off just enough to get it done.

So how many sessions did it take in total and what about the 8c you just sent?
Hmm didn’t keep track aha because I dread to think how expensive it was as a project 🤣 But I think 6 trips of 6-10 days + the final 4 day one. Some of the trips I had to climb other stuff as well just to stay sane. Climb for life is in Custonaci about 20 mins from San Vito lo Capo. I really liked it for a project spot as it was super peaceful so it felt easy to switch off once the climbing was done for the day.

The 8c I did was kinda my early season goal to get back acclimatised to the Kilnsey roof ready for the big goal of the season :) happy to get it done in 3 sessions. Just gotta patiently wait for the roof to dry out now !

Sorato Anraku, who has goten the gold in the first three Boulder World Cups in 2026, won all rounds in Prague and set a new male record winning four straight Boulder World Cups.
“I can’t really say anything. I don’t really understand how to feel, but it’s good to relieve some pressure. The final round was a bit coordination on the slab, and this is not my style. I know the record, but I don’t care so much. I just love competing.”