NEWS

La Cura 9a FA by Marcello Bombardi
Marcello Bombardi, who has won one World Cup, has done the FA of La Cura 9a in Ollomont, bolted by Massimo Bal. "After 7 days of work and many falls at the last move I managed to clip the chain and do the FA of this open project "La Cura"! 30 moves with no rests on a slightly overhanging wall."

What is next?
I have two other projects close to home, one of which is quite hard, but we have the last national comp in two weeks so I will focus on that one first.

X-Drive 9a/+ FA by Manuel Brunn  (43)
Manuel Brunn, who previously has done two 9a's, out of which the last one in 2013, has made the FA of X-Drive 9a/+ in Allgรคu. It is a link-up of two FA by the Bindhammer brothers and it took him some 30 sessions. (c) Fabi Buhl

"This is the more logical and better line in my eyes. The process took quite a long as I have to squeeze my climbing into my daily life with kids and work. Iโ€™m also quite old turning 43 this year and need more and more rest days compared to the younger generation. Overall I tried the route for 2 seasons."

Did you do any special training or just climb on the route?
No training. Iโ€™m climbing for 30 years and for the last ten years I didnโ€™t train at all. I just go outside. Motivation and knowing when to try hard is the keyโ€ฆ

William Bosi on rampage in Switzerland
William Bosi, who was #11 in the Lead World Championship last month, has been on a bouldering trip to Switzerland where he flashed two 8A+'; Red Snapper and De Lucifer, redpointed Foundations' Edge 8C as well as another four 8B+'. Amazingly, the 8C took just two hours with the FA Dave Graham supporting the beta and three of the 8B+' in just one hour each.

"These boulders are absolutely incredible, so just being able to try them was great fun. It was hugely rewarding to get them sent fast as well. Definitely shows my training has been paying off and that I am in a good shape. It gives me more confidence in the FAs I did at the beginning of the year in Spain but it is back to training now for future projects next year!โ€

Up forever 8c+ by Iuri Reusa (47)
Iuri Reusa has done his second 8c+, Up forever in Falesia del ghรซddo. It was put up by his 14-year-old son Michele this spring. Iuri started to climb some 25 years ago and did his first 8c+ in 2017, a couple of years after his sons got into climbing. The family has been developing the crag and Matteo (13) has also made an 8c+ FA here, which is still unrepeated.

"I am not as strong as my children since it took them only a few days to make that shot while it took me many more days, even months. Up forever is a resistance route along a big overhang with a still difficult final passage. It is located in the crag we are equipping and where there are even more difficult projects to free. We are waiting for strong climbers to come up against these routes.

I think I went up to try the pitch for twenty days. This year we have climbed a little on the rock but we have climbed a lot in the climbing gyms. Given the proximity of the cliff from our home, we can often go in the evening."


What are the winter climbing plans for the family?
I think Michele and Matteo want to climb a lot in the gym. We would like to start bolting another small winter crag. Then let's see... we still have many projects in Piedmont.

Giuliano Cameroni did the FA of Hazel Grace Sit 8C/+ in June after 38 days. "The full line from the sit. Very obvious start. Took so long to figure out a very tricky heel hook and all the positions needed to stay on the wall. Really hard to give an opinion about the grade because there is a super tricky heel hook. Physically it felt 8c but technically 8c+. Could be both, let's see what other repetitors think."

Hungry Dog 8C FA by Sergei Skorodumov
Sergei Skorodumov, who previously has done four 8B+, has made the FA of Hungry Dog 8C in Tiversk. "We tried this boulder last year, but almost nothing worked. This year I decided to try to take it apart which took several days. The weather was perfect and everything worked out. Boulder 6-7 meters high, slightly overhanging on bad crimps." (c) Leo Zhukov

The Russian has been an active competition climber during the last ten years and his best result is getting the silver in the European Championship in 2019. In the world Championship last month, he was 21.

Before being a rock star and member of the Rolling Stones, 15-year-old Mick Jagger demoed climbing shoes with his dad ;-)

Salamandre 8A (+), 8A's and a 7C+ flash by Camilla Moroni
Camilla Moroni, the silver medalist in the world championship last month, has done Salamandre 8A (+), in just one session, and two more 8A's in Brione, as well as a 7C+ flash. " Really cool boulders, happy to send them! I hope to come back the next weekend to try new boulders."

How was the experience getting the sensational silver?
My experience at the World Championship in Moscow is unforgettable. I have to admit that I didn't expect to qualify for the finals after the results in World Cups. But the day of the semis I climbed really focused and giving all myself on each boulder, I knew I was making a great comp. Once I made finals my goal was to make the podium and I climbed hard for that. I have never felt these emotions before, it was a blast! Now I'm enjoying some rock climbing before I start training again for the next season, it's really motivating reading the next season calendar!

Laura Rogora reports on Insta that she during a "super weekend" in San Rocchino has onsighted Obi one kenobi 8b+ and No comment 8b, as well as redpointed La Terza Etรก 9a (8c+). The 20-year-old has now done 20 routes 8c+/9a and harder which can be compared with ten for the runner-up, Anak Verhoeven, on that list. (c) Luca Andreozzi

She did her first 8b onsight when she was 14-years-old and this was her third 8b+ onsight meaning she is tied #1 in this discipline, together with Charlotte Durif.