Deutschland Meutschland 8Cc FA by Niki Rusev (15)

Monday, 15 November

Niki Rusev, the 2021 Combined European Champion, has done the FA of Deutschland Meutschland (8C) in Rila Monastery. It is 24 moves roof climbing that took the 15-year-old, eight sessions and three minutes to climb, Insta video. (8a normally reports such boulder routes like 8Cc in order to separate them from boulders.) (c) Vladimir Pekov

"On the last try before the sunset, I managed to finish off this crazy beautiful roof project above the Rila forest. 24 hard and long moves involving many important heel hooks. Actually, it’s closer to lead climbing style than bouldering. I also suffered at the last part in which I had to do a compression and put maybe the trickiest heel hook that most of the time slipped, so everything had to be perfect. I used to drink coffeе in the last resort, just to wake me up a little bit for the try."

The Boulder Youth World Champion did amazingly also win one Euro Youth in Speed as well as twice made the podium in Lead. His previous hardest boulder was 8A+ but he has done two 9a's and he feels like this could be graded as a 9a if it was a route.

What are your winter plans?
Our plan is to climb as much as possible on rocks until the new year because the new comp calendar is full of challenges. There are so many more beautiful lines like this, including routes. I have no excuse not to climb. I have everything I need and I think I'll take advantage ;)

0  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date A Reply A

RELATED NEWS

NUMBERS

Tuesday, 19 January

Add crags to the database

We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.

NUMBERS

Monday, 12 October

Systematic Devaluing ethics

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…

EDITORIAL

Wednesday, 18 May

No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs

During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …