Paint it Black 8C by Austin Purdy

Sunday, 14 November

Austin Purdy has done Paint it Black (8C) in RMNP (CO). Interestingly, in the end it came down to some fingernails optimization that Austin describes below. Previoulsy, the 24-year-old has done 72 8B's, 17 8B+' and just one 8C, so we are talking about a record wide grade pyramid showing that there is room to make it more pointy.

"Paint It Black has been at the top of the list of boulders I want to do in Colorado since I moved here, but after trying it a little bit a few years ago I wrote it off due to my fat fingers not fitting inside of the tiny slot crux crimp. This year though I have been feeling a lot stronger and decided to return to it. I immediately felt a lot better on the boulder and also figured out that I could file down the tops of my fingernails the make my fingers thinner and fit them into the slot just deep enough to make it possible. After this discovery, the boulder went down relatively quickly!"

1  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date A Reply A



Tuesday, 19 January

Add crags to the database

We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.


Monday, 12 October

Systematic Devaluing ethics

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…


Wednesday, 18 May

No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs

During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …