15 November 2021
Anna Hazelnutt sends Once Upon a Time as her first UK E9? (8a) trad route
Climbing has the full interview where Anna Hazelnutt says, "I think the route was actually relatively safe." Impressively, Anna started to trad climb in 2021 and this was her first ever hard trad route. The videos is excellent and it sure does look scary. Actually, twice her placed gear falls out!
It says 5.13a/b R (7c+/8a R=dangerous) in the Youtube presentation which is strange as it previously has been considered 8a/+. Furthermore, the R added after the grade should mean that you probably will seriously injure yourself if you fall in the wrong place. In practice, a "relatively safe" 8a/+ does not convert to UK E9 grade which only a handful of females previously have reached. The UK grading system is based on a combination of how hard and dangerous it is to onsight trad routes.
It says 5.13a/b R (7c+/8a R=dangerous) in the Youtube presentation which is strange as it previously has been considered 8a/+. Furthermore, the R added after the grade should mean that you probably will seriously injure yourself if you fall in the wrong place. In practice, a "relatively safe" 8a/+ does not convert to UK E9 grade which only a handful of females previously have reached. The UK grading system is based on a combination of how hard and dangerous it is to onsight trad routes.
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