Chris Sharma put up Samfaina as a 9a in 2010 and then Ramon Julian Puigblanque repeated it rather quickly confirming the grade. The second repeat was done by Jorge Diaz-Rullo last year suggesting 9a+ which also Alex Megos now has done.

Dave Graham reports on Insta that he last month did La Rustica 8C in Valle Bavona. It was put up by James Webb in 2013 and all the previous handful repeaters have given it five stars and Dave comments, "potentially the most aesthetic climb in Bavona."

"After about 6 sessions trying about 200 times per session from the start I managed to do the pocket move but quickly slipped off the middle section. Over the next 4 sessions I proceeded to fall off the final move to the jug 3 times 😵‍💫 As it was intensive for my left leg I spaced my sessions about 10 days apart."

This was the 40-year-old's four 8C during the last five months and actually his last three years have been his best ever. Last month we asked him, How can you still progress after 20+ years as a pro climber?
I feel stronger honestly! 😅😅😅, 🤔🤔🤔. Not sure why?? Maybe smarter??? Healthier lifestyle. Ah just eating better, no partying, lots of good rest!! Better attitude about climbing, more patient and also less concerned with conditions. Always finding new solutions, not getting angry. In the past, I would get much more frustrated when I would fail or not do well. These days I think I'm so used to failing that I'm surprised when I succeed. I do boulders that are really my antistyle too. So I assume they should be hard but I think it really helped my mental game, to push longer and harder. Never get pissed, it is not wise!!! I am feeling strong!! But four months of trying hard has been tough, I took the last two weeks kind of easy as the weather was finally bad 😅🤣

Mateusz Haladaj has done Catxasa (9a+) in Santa Linya. "Epic journey with this one. So close last year, this time unexpected. Steep, Savage, Complex, Hard, Love it!" (c) Zac Moss

The 36-year-old reports on Insta that he was very close sending first three yeears ago and then again last year, when he did the easier variation Catxasita (9a). In total, the Pole has done some 15 routes 9a and harder.

Advertorial: Another Play in Paradise is a spicy route, one of 129 that traverse the south-facing slopes of the Lienz Dolomites in 5 sectors ranging in difficulty from 5 to 8. This pitch graded 7c in sector A, otherwise known as “Paradies”, offers wonderfully consistent climbing, on a face that becomes more exposed and technically demanding the closer you get to the top. Mid-route, an easier segment offers climbers a moment to gather reserves, before heading on to tackle the upper section.

Due to its high altitude at 1600 metres above sea level, there may be residual snow until late spring, but is generally accessible from April until October. The climb is well secured and offers a magnificent panorama. It is located below the eponymous Dolomite Hut, a great hiking and climbing destination, as well as the starting point of wonderful trails to Karlsbad Hut or Lake Laserz in the municipality of Tristach, an idyllic holiday destination near Lienz, the capital of East Tyrol. More info and a Video.

IFSC has totally changed the ranking points given in the World Cups. Previously, 100 points were given for #1 and one point for #30, followed by decimal points down to #40.

In the new IFSC ranking format, 1 000 points are given to the winner and the first 80 get points. The scale is thus less progressive and #40 gets 10 points. Interestingly, further down the list, different results get the same points, i.e. #69 - #74 get two points. It should be mentioned that Natalia Grossman had won over Janja Garnbret in Lead and Kokoro Fujii had won over Yoshiyuki Ogata in Bouldering in 2021 if the changes had been done last year.

One reason for this change is to have the starting order in Bouldering more based on the ranking points instead of just randomized for all with zero points. It should be mentioned that also the European Cup rankings points have been updated but they just give points to the Top-60 and 100 points to the winner.

1. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 1 805 - Natalia Grossman USA 1 805
2. Ogata Yoshiyuki JPN 1 495 - Oriane Bertone FRA 1 415
2/3. Kokoro Fujii JPN 1 495 - Stasa Gejo SRB 1 105
4. Paul Jenft FRA 1 220 - Janja Garnbret SLO 1 000

5. Mejdi Schalck JPN 1 145 - Brooke Raboutou USA 990
6. Keita Dohi JPN 875 - Camilla Moroni ITA 825
7. Maximillian Milne GBR 830 - Futaba Ito 785
8. Yuji Inoue JPN 695 - Cloe Coscoy USA 700

Japan has dominated the male scene for many years but actually, their start in 2022 is the best ever. At the same time, Austria and Slovenia have had a relatively weak start which partly can be explained by Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret have only done one event. Also, Nathaniel Coleman, has only competed in Meiringen and Sean Bailey from the US has not yet participated. The latter two are, however, registered to compete in the two upcoming events in Salt Lake City starting 20/5 and 27/5.

This is an opportunity to combine your passion for climbing with your professional expertise. You’ll get to work on and develop software that many of your climbing friends interact with every week.
As a product manager, your job is to find efficient ways to improve 8a.nu and Vertical-Life, and to bring them closer together. You will formulate clear user stories and - journeys with a great day out climbing in mind, whether that is in the gym, or on the way to a remote crag. You’ll be in charge of documenting, coordinating and prioritizing the team’s tasks that range from UX improvements and new features, to technical improvements that pave the way for future development. To manage all of this, you will rely on your ability to work methodically and to think analytically, as well as your deep understanding of climber’s needs and how 8a.nu and the Vertical-Life app can best serve them.

Requirements:
- You are a passionate, well-traveled and competent climber. You know a glue-in from an expansion bolt and don’t think of the stock market first when you hear ‘Wallstreet’
- You have a demonstrated ability of analytical thinking and like to get to the bottom of things. A university degree in computer science, a natural science or similar is a plus.
- You are committed to quality, that’s why you diligently test changes before they go out.
- You are able to manage an international, partially remote, team and coordinate their work.
- You are fluent in German and English and able to communicate clearly.
- You are willing to travel to South Tyrol in regular intervals (min. 6 times a year).
- Previous experience in software development, product management or data analysis is a plus.

Sound like you?
Great, we would love to hear from you! Please send the following to [email protected]:
- Your CV in English or German, highlighting your most relevant professional experience, as well as a short list of your favorite climbs.
- A one-page write-up (Cover Letter) in which you briefly introduce yourself and tell us why you would like to work with us.

About us:
We are a team of roughly 30 people from more than 12 countries that share the common goal of creating software and digital solutions that express our passion for climbing. Our office is located in Brixen, South Tyrol, but some of us work remotely and visit sporadically. We have five main products - the Smart Climbing Gym software, NO-Q, the result service, 8a.nu, and the Vertical-Life App. While we’ve been focused on the first two in the last two years, we are now expanding our team and itching to better connect and improve 8a.nu and Vertical-Life. Join us to make it happen!

See other job openings at our website.

Jenya Kazbekova was #4 in the Brixen EC. She started off with three straight flashes and then she needed seven tries to make the first move and top out also the last boulder. Super impressive as her preparation was a 2-weeks trip to Siurana, where the Ukrainian onsighted two 8a+, flashed Sentimental 8b+, on 2nd go did Directa Jabali and redpointed Pati Noso 8c/+.

How was this record tick list possible?
Winter training pays off if you go rock climbing mid comp season👍🏼

How was the feeling starting the last boulder as you know that you could win?
I knew that the last boulder would be the deciding one. Jumps were never my strong side, and I wasn't as confident as on the first three, I think that influenced my performance a lot. The jump itself wasn't too hard, just coordination, unfortunately, it took me too many tries to get the feeling for it.

Which comps do you plan to do in 2022 and what are your ambitions?
Pretty much all the comps until Villars, then World games, maybe can squeeze in some rock climbing afterwards and then EU Championship in Munich. After that only rock climbing😊. Ambitions, show my best for my country and my people💙💛

Simon Lorenzi won over Mathieu Ternant by countback by flashing the last boulder. In practice, they got the exact same results with three flashes and a zone on their second attempt. Yannick Flohé was the only one who did the first three boulders but as he could not do the last, he got the bronze instead. Lorenzi comments in the official press release, "I am so happy, I’m feeling home here, since my dad is Italian. Boulders were not so difficult, but you cannot make any mistake if you want to win. I’ll be here in June for the World Cup… and we’ll see.”

In the female category five girls got all four boulders and Sandra Lettner won by doing them in seven tries. Eliska Adamovska needed eight tries and Agathe Calliet nine tries. Lettner comments, "I did not expect it, since I had some problems during the last weeks. I still cannot believe it. Vertikale is one of the best gyms I’ve ever been to, I won here in 2019 also. Now it’s time for another European Cup stage, I’ll be doing my best”. Complete results

Reino "Nicki" Horak, team manager Norway comments to 8a, "Perfecly executed competition with a fantastic atmosphere. The location is great, it was packed to the last seat and everyone could enjoy a great show. I am looking forward to the World Cup in June."