8 May 2022
Rock and Comp success for Jenya Kazbekova
Jenya Kazbekova was #4 in the Brixen EC. She started off with three straight flashes and then she needed seven tries to make the first move and top out also the last boulder. Super impressive as her preparation was a 2-weeks trip to Siurana, where the Ukrainian onsighted two 8a+, flashed Sentimental 8b+, on 2nd go did Directa Jabali and redpointed Pati Noso 8c/+.
How was this record tick list possible?
Winter training pays off if you go rock climbing mid comp season๐๐ผ
How was the feeling starting the last boulder as you know that you could win?
I knew that the last boulder would be the deciding one. Jumps were never my strong side, and I wasn't as confident as on the first three, I think that influenced my performance a lot. The jump itself wasn't too hard, just coordination, unfortunately, it took me too many tries to get the feeling for it.
Which comps do you plan to do in 2022 and what are your ambitions?
Pretty much all the comps until Villars, then World games, maybe can squeeze in some rock climbing afterwards and then EU Championship in Munich. After that only rock climbing๐. Ambitions, show my best for my country and my people๐๐
How was this record tick list possible?
Winter training pays off if you go rock climbing mid comp season๐๐ผ
How was the feeling starting the last boulder as you know that you could win?
I knew that the last boulder would be the deciding one. Jumps were never my strong side, and I wasn't as confident as on the first three, I think that influenced my performance a lot. The jump itself wasn't too hard, just coordination, unfortunately, it took me too many tries to get the feeling for it.
Which comps do you plan to do in 2022 and what are your ambitions?
Pretty much all the comps until Villars, then World games, maybe can squeeze in some rock climbing afterwards and then EU Championship in Munich. After that only rock climbing๐. Ambitions, show my best for my country and my people๐๐
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Related
10 June 2022
Full support to Team Ukraine
Team Ukraine has five boys and three girls doing the Brixen World Cup. Jenya Kazbekova is missing out, party, due to the injury she got in Salt Lake City but heโฆ
14 July 2025
Jenya Kazbekovaโs disordered eating story
Jenya Kazbekova, an Olympian who placed 2nd in Lead and 4th in Boulder at last yearโs European Championships, has shared an open letter discussing her strugglesโฆ
16 November 2011
The great Kazbekovs
Ievgeniia Kazbekova (15) from Ukraine recently onsighted an 8a+ and an 8a at Kalymnos. In 2010, she won the Youth worlds and she did her first 8b+ being 13 yearโฆ
Related news
10 June 2022
Full support to Team Ukraine
Team Ukraine has five boys and three girls doing the Brixen World Cup. Jenya Kazbekova is missing out, party, due to the injury she got in Salt Lake City but heโฆ
14 July 2025
Jenya Kazbekovaโs disordered eating story
Jenya Kazbekova, an Olympian who placed 2nd in Lead and 4th in Boulder at last yearโs European Championships, has shared an open letter discussing her strugglesโฆ
16 November 2011
The great Kazbekovs
Ievgeniia Kazbekova (15) from Ukraine recently onsighted an 8a+ and an 8a at Kalymnos. In 2010, she won the Youth worlds and she did her first 8b+ being 13 yearโฆ
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ