La Rustica 8C by Dave Graham (40)

Tuesday, 10 May

Dave Graham reports on Insta that he last month did La Rustica 8C in Valle Bavona. It was put up by James Webb in 2013 and all the previous handful repeaters have given it five stars and Dave comments, "potentially the most aesthetic climb in Bavona."

"After about 6 sessions trying about 200 times per session from the start I managed to do the pocket move but quickly slipped off the middle section. Over the next 4 sessions I proceeded to fall off the final move to the jug 3 times 😵‍💫 As it was intensive for my left leg I spaced my sessions about 10 days apart."

This was the 40-year-old's four 8C during the last five months and actually his last three years have been his best ever. Last month we asked him, How can you still progress after 20+ years as a pro climber?
I feel stronger honestly! 😅😅😅, 🤔🤔🤔. Not sure why?? Maybe smarter??? Healthier lifestyle. Ah just eating better, no partying, lots of good rest!! Better attitude about climbing, more patient and also less concerned with conditions. Always finding new solutions, not getting angry. In the past, I would get much more frustrated when I would fail or not do well. These days I think I'm so used to failing that I'm surprised when I succeed. I do boulders that are really my antistyle too. So I assume they should be hard but I think it really helped my mental game, to push longer and harder. Never get pissed, it is not wise!!! I am feeling strong!! But four months of trying hard has been tough, I took the last two weeks kind of easy as the weather was finally bad 😅🤣

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