New WC ranking format

EDITORIAL

Monday, 9 May

IFSC has totally changed the ranking points given in the World Cups. Previously, 100 points were given for #1 and one point for #30, followed by decimal points down to #40.

In the new IFSC ranking format, 1 000 points are given to the winner and the first 80 get points. The scale is thus less progressive and #40 gets 10 points. Interestingly, further down the list, different results get the same points, i.e. #69 - #74 get two points. It should be mentioned that Natalia Grossman had won over Janja Garnbret in Lead and Kokoro Fujii had won over Yoshiyuki Ogata in Bouldering in 2021 if the changes had been done last year.

One reason for this change is to have the starting order in Bouldering more based on the ranking points instead of just randomized for all with zero points. It should be mentioned that also the European Cup rankings points have been updated but they just give points to the Top-60 and 100 points to the winner.


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Seb Bouin and his (9c) grading

Thursday, 19 May

Seb Bouin and his (9c) grading

Sebastien Bouin has done some 60 routes 9a and harder out of which 25 are FAs, including DNA 9c in Verdon which he did last month. Interestingly none of these F…

Monday, 16 May

Eder Lomba does Rainman 9b

Steve McClure put up Rainman 9b at Malham in 2017 after projecting it for 128 days. It is considered the hardest route in Britain and now Eder Lomba has done the first repeat. It is a link-up that goes through the crux of Rainshadow 9a and then into Batman 9a before finishing up Bat Route 8c. Intere…

Lomba's 9b knee pad technique and leg strength story

Tuesday, 17 May

Lomba's 9b knee pad technique and leg strength story

In the Eder Lomba video of Rainman 9b, we can see that he stays in a kneebar from 3:50 - 7:10, and short parts of it, "no hands rest". Steve McClure did the FA …

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Lomba's 9b knee pad technique and leg strength story

Tuesday, 17 May

Lomba's 9b knee pad technique and leg strength story

In the Eder Lomba video of Rainman 9b, we can see that he stays in a kneebar from 3:50 - 7:10, and short parts of it, "no hands rest". Steve McClure did the FA …

Monday, 16 May

Eder Lomba does Rainman 9b

Steve McClure put up Rainman 9b at Malham in 2017 after projecting it for 128 days. It is considered the hardest route in Britain and now Eder Lomba has done the first repeat. It is a link-up that goes through the crux of Rainshadow 9a and then into Batman 9a before finishing up Bat Route 8c. Intere…

SLC Boulder WCs back-to-back

EDITORIAL

Wednesday, 18 May

SLC Boulder WCs back-to-back

Besides Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra, almost all of the biggest stars are registered to compete in the Salt Lake City Bouldering WCs during the two upcoming we…