Narasaki and Grossman ahead in the new Boulder ranking

EDITORIAL

Monday, 9 May

1. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 1 805 - Natalia Grossman USA 1 805
2. Ogata Yoshiyuki JPN 1 495 - Oriane Bertone FRA 1 415
2/3. Kokoro Fujii JPN 1 495 - Stasa Gejo SRB 1 105
4. Paul Jenft FRA 1 220 - Janja Garnbret SLO 1 000

5. Mejdi Schalck JPN 1 145 - Brooke Raboutou USA 990
6. Keita Dohi JPN 875 - Camilla Moroni ITA 825
7. Maximillian Milne GBR 830 - Futaba Ito 785
8. Yuji Inoue JPN 695 - Cloe Coscoy USA 700

Japan has dominated the male scene for many years but actually, their start in 2022 is the best ever. At the same time, Austria and Slovenia have had a relatively weak start which partly can be explained by Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret have only done one event. Also, Nathaniel Coleman, has only competed in Meiringen and Sean Bailey from the US has not yet participated. The latter two are, however, registered to compete in the two upcoming events in Salt Lake City starting 20/5 and 27/5.

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Seb Bouin and his (9c) grading

Thursday, 19 May

Seb Bouin and his (9c) grading

Sebastien Bouin has done some 60 routes 9a and harder out of which 25 are FAs, including DNA 9c in Verdon which he did last month. Interestingly none of these F…

Monday, 16 May

Eder Lomba does Rainman 9b

Steve McClure put up Rainman 9b at Malham in 2017 after projecting it for 128 days. It is considered the hardest route in Britain and now Eder Lomba has done the first repeat. It is a link-up that goes through the crux of Rainshadow 9a and then into Batman 9a before finishing up Bat Route 8c. Intere…

Lomba's 9b knee pad technique and leg strength story

Tuesday, 17 May

Lomba's 9b knee pad technique and leg strength story

In the Eder Lomba video of Rainman 9b, we can see that he stays in a kneebar from 3:50 - 7:10, and short parts of it, "no hands rest". Steve McClure did the FA …

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Lomba's 9b knee pad technique and leg strength story

Tuesday, 17 May

Lomba's 9b knee pad technique and leg strength story

In the Eder Lomba video of Rainman 9b, we can see that he stays in a kneebar from 3:50 - 7:10, and short parts of it, "no hands rest". Steve McClure did the FA …

Monday, 16 May

Eder Lomba does Rainman 9b

Steve McClure put up Rainman 9b at Malham in 2017 after projecting it for 128 days. It is considered the hardest route in Britain and now Eder Lomba has done the first repeat. It is a link-up that goes through the crux of Rainshadow 9a and then into Batman 9a before finishing up Bat Route 8c. Intere…

SLC Boulder WCs back-to-back

EDITORIAL

Wednesday, 18 May

SLC Boulder WCs back-to-back

Besides Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra, almost all of the biggest stars are registered to compete in the Salt Lake City Bouldering WCs during the two upcoming we…