Camilla Moroni, who the last three weeks has sent two 8A+, has done Delusion of grandeur (8A+) and Willenberg dach (8A) in Chironico.

The 21-year-old Italian was #9 in the World Cup this year and in the 8a ranking game she is #6.

How can you explain being in such good shape outdoors lately?
I think for being in a good shape outdoors I really need to climb a few times on rock to gain that tension and finger strength you are not used to training during the comp period, I get stronger on rock just by climbing a lot on this specific style.

The men, making it to the final in the Morioka Combined World Cup, will take a go through three rounds that include 12 boulders and 3 routes in just two days. For the women, the three rounds of the competition will be held over three days instead of two. Several of the best European competitors are missing but Japan (16), USA (7), Korea (7), Germany (6), France (5) and Belgium (4) are fielding sizeable teams.


Thursday, 20 October: (UTC +9:00)
9:00 AM Boulder qualification
2:30 PM Lead qualification

Friday, 21 October:
9:00 AM Boulder semi
12:30 PM Lead semi
6:10 PM Men's Boulder and Lead final

Saturday, 22 October:
2:40 PM Women's Boulder and Lead final

Jana Svecova has done the FA of Jaxitax low (8A+) in Moravský kras. "Amazing to get back after 2 years and do the lower version of such a great 8A." It should be noted that originally the stand start version was graded 8B.

Tomoa Narasaki had an amazing Asia Championship winning Lead, Boulder, and the Combined Lead & Boulder. Chaehyun Seo won both Lead and the Combined and took the bronze in Boulder which was won by Futabo Ito. Lead & Boulder: 1. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 177.3 - Chaehyun Seo KOR 177.5
2. Kokoro Fujii JPN 175.7 - Natsuki Tanii JPN 176.6
3. Dohyun Lee KOR 167.2 - Futaba Ito JPN 158.0

If the Combined would have been run with the new suggested format giving 5 and 10 points for the zones, Tomoa would have placed second to Kokoro Fujii, as Fujii got one more zone.

William Moss has flashed Trebuchet (8c) in New River Gorge (WV). "Omg hardest flash of my life. Probably my proudest moment in climbing yet. First route of the day but did some bat hangs to avoid the flash pump."

Two days later the 17-hear-old did . ”New route I think I have the fifth ascent. Many ascensionests took mid 14 but Tyler and I agree it’s much harder than treb and deserves 8c+. Also the resting hold broke the day before I sent making the last crux the hardest one at least for me. Amazing climb that feels straight out of Rifle.”

Daniel Fuertes has done the FA of Excelsior (9a+) in Foz de Zafrané. The 42-year-old did his first 8a in 1997 and now he has done 1 258 up to 9a+. Last week he did another 9a+ and explained why he is sending harder than ever during the last two years. "Now, is more difficult for me to travel for climbing routes onsight and it’s more comfortable climbing hard projects close to home." (c) Nacho Fuertes Olles

Can you tell us a little more about your ascent and the process?
I started testing the route a few seasons ago when I bolted it. I tried days I climbed close to home, just seeing the moves, knowing the way. The last autum, I tried it more seriously but I couldn’t do it, so it became my priority this year. In spring, there were very bad conditions and I could barely focus on it, but this autumn I came back and felt good from the beginning and I managed to chain it in a few days 🤗. Now, I need some relaxation and enjoy climbing onsight different routes 🤗.

Gonzalo Larrocha has done La fuga de Picasso (9a) in Rodellar, which Jonathan Flor did the FA of last month. ”I spent many days trying it during September, but now it is difficult to find people to climb there. The route is a real challenge on kneebars and I used some of the most technical in my life. The route has a first 8b+ section and after a good rest, you continue on to the main section. After that, you climb another 8b. It's more or less 45m, out of which in a roof, and the rest is really overhanging.”

In total, the 38-year-old has logged 1 823 routes 8a and harder, out of which 26 are graded 9a to 9a+. During the last 12 months, he has sent 142 routes 8a and harder.

How many days a week do you climb and what does your normal climbing week look like?
Usually, I climb 4 days a week and train 2 more days. This year I finish my job at 13:00 on Tuesday and Friday, and this is when I go climbing during the week, and also on the weekend. I like both long-time projects and multiple ascents. Now I don't have too many routes to do fast near home.

What is your next plan? When I recover my hand I would like to return to Margalef. I injured my ligaments trying , and now I don't have power on two finger pockets.

Jake Bresnehan gave him the running beta. "I went up the climb in short sections (1 or 2 bolts at a time) and explained my beta and a few other options for the tricky sections I knew. We are very similar heights so my beta was pretty spot on. He was a little nervous with the first move and down climbed a few times to the ground to gather some composure. Once he committed he was in the zone and nailed everything. One of the most inspiring things I have seen."

Matteo Menardi, who previously has done eight 9a's, has done Zeitläufer (9a) in . (c) Weger Philipp "Queen of the valley, glad to finally climb this 40 meters endurance benchmark! Dolomites sport climbing at its finest: the first couple of draws from, "All In" then on to the right. Thanks Hannes once again for the vision and bringing it to the light."

Can you tell us a little more about your ascent?
The “Landro” valley (Höhlensteintal in German) has been for me probably the main summer climbing area since I began. Pangea was one of the last sectors that I had the pleasure to discover and climb in. In 2015, at the end of the summer season, I would then free the last of those long endurance dolomitic projects. 2020 went by and just before autumn a new outstanding project was born: Hannes Phfeifhofer (local long-time passionate climber and driving force for the development of these areas) bolted a new route on the right of “All In” with the same start, which follows a logical line up the orange/pale yellow wall. Alexander Megos, in one of his visits to South Tyrol, would also go up to Pangea on a freezing cold day and confirm that yes, this project is hard and in fact might be “9a or harder”.

I discovered it and took the decision to wait for the summer and start exploring. I dedicated at least five sessions to understanding the rock and its holds as well as figuring out the betas: some moves seemed really low percentage. But I insisted because I liked this challenge, loved being in (my) nature and it really made sense as Landro in general is just a short drive from my hometown. The season went by and it had all started to build up: sequences, links, power, endurance… So I kept on trying until it was too late because I had missed one detail, which made me always fall at the last quickdraw.

This year I knew how things were: the small pockets get humid easily and I personally really struggle with bad conditions on such long routes with few rests. Starting in July until late September I worked at the local tourist information point and focused on trying it at best in a few days, having great times with my friends who also patiently let me practice German! All in all this season it took me a dozen sessions and on October 7th, using another foothold and this tiny intermediate at the top, I screamed with joy holding the jug of glory.

I named it “Zeitläufer” because there are just a few good dry days for it and time flies! My approach to grading is based on other already established routes in the same sector like Open Project (8c+), discussions at the crag as well as personal experience. All in all, I propose 9a for one of the hardest routes in South Tyrol and the nearby province of Belluno.