17 November 2022
Falshiv geroy 9a by Niki Rusev (16)
Niki Rusev, who did his first two 9a's in 2020, has done Falshiv geroy (9a) in . Last year, the 16-year-old won both the World and the Euro Championships in Boulder. Impressively, he also won one Euro Youth Cup in Speed.
โCan not describe how happy I am about this one๐. Back in 2020 @fazabrushes bolted a new line in the crag and it seemed to be a hard one๐ช. We did all the moves but for me, it was crazy to connect all the parts together ๐ฒ. The bad thing is that the route gets wet easily so we couldnโt improve more๐ฆ๐ฉ. Last month Ivailo fazata did FA ๐ซก. (Surprisingly fast he got back in shape after being a Bg national team coach the whole comp season).
For me it took me a month and a half to send Falshiv geroy (translated - Fake hero)๐. Every next try was better than the other until I stuck on the last hard move of the route, maybe because I underestimated it. I did try a lot of things like doing leg days in the fitness๐ฆต(to rest more with my knees) or just training endurance in the gym but the final conclusion is I got better when I was on the route๐ค. After another fail, I decided to change my beta by skipping one move and making a bigger jump and it helped๐ค๐ค ๐ฅ. I donโt know when but we have to go back to try the second part of Falshiv geroy. It continues directly through the roof of the cave and finishes on top of it๐คฏ.
โCan not describe how happy I am about this one๐. Back in 2020 @fazabrushes bolted a new line in the crag and it seemed to be a hard one๐ช. We did all the moves but for me, it was crazy to connect all the parts together ๐ฒ. The bad thing is that the route gets wet easily so we couldnโt improve more๐ฆ๐ฉ. Last month Ivailo fazata did FA ๐ซก. (Surprisingly fast he got back in shape after being a Bg national team coach the whole comp season).
For me it took me a month and a half to send Falshiv geroy (translated - Fake hero)๐. Every next try was better than the other until I stuck on the last hard move of the route, maybe because I underestimated it. I did try a lot of things like doing leg days in the fitness๐ฆต(to rest more with my knees) or just training endurance in the gym but the final conclusion is I got better when I was on the route๐ค. After another fail, I decided to change my beta by skipping one move and making a bigger jump and it helped๐ค๐ค ๐ฅ. I donโt know when but we have to go back to try the second part of Falshiv geroy. It continues directly through the roof of the cave and finishes on top of it๐คฏ.
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